Saturday, April 28, 2012

Day 28: 4/28/12

Miles today: 6.3
Total miles: 342.0

Got up early this morning and headed down the trail to Nolichucky Hostel, or "Uncle Johnny's," as it's also known. This place deserves the sketchy reputation that it has. But as far as hostels go, it'll do. Cheap bunk, shuttles to town. They also have bicycles so this dude Hambone and I took bikes into town. Rode in, did the usual laundry and resupply, and made a few phone calls. Back at the hostel I met a few guys from my hometown of Kalamazoo, MI. We drank beer and talked about the Detroit Tigers. Small world.

Day 27: 4/27/12

Miles today: 20.7
Total miles: 335.7

Nice hike today. Hit Big Bald early on, great views, even if it was hazy. Then hiked until dark, put in a lot of miles today. Heading into Erwin, TN for resupply tomorrow.

Staying at No Business Knob shelter.

Thursday, April 26, 2012

Day 26: 4/26/12

Miles today: 14.7
Total miles: 315.0

Rain. A mudslidey, slippery slog through the rain. But it's ok; today's hike is over and tomorrow's a new day.

Staying at Hogback Ridge shelter.

Day 25: 4/25/12

Miles today: 15.4
Total miles: 300.3

I am more exhausted tonight than I've been since my first week on the trail. Rocky cliffs and ridges made for fun climbing but sapped all my energy. Today's hike took everything I had. I got to camp, set up my tent, ate dinner, then lay down and am ready to sleep. I'll read a little until I pass out. I hope it doesn't rain tomorrow.

Camped near Jerry Cabin shelter

Tuesday, April 24, 2012

Day 24: 4/24/12

Miles today: 11.0
Total miles: 284.9

Left town at 10am, immediate tough climb up a rocky cliff side, nice hiking, felt good.

At around 2500 ft I was walking down the trail minding my own business when I began to hear a "cheep cheep cheep cheep..." then a bird jumped in front me onto the trail. I figured it was a bluejay or something, been a lot of those lately. But upon a closer look, it was a tiny fuzzy duckling, tripping and falling and crossing the trail, then toppling down the hill. Then about 10-12 more awkward ducklings came tumbling down from above the trail, clumsily crossed the trail, then spilled down the hill, one at a time. "cheep cheep cheep cheep..." I didn't see a mama duck but I'm guessing these were brand-new ducks leaving the nest for the first time, heading down the hill to the river for the first time. It's the only explanation I have for those little ducklings being 2500 feet above the water. Pretty cool thing to see. I took a video, I'll upload it once I have better signal.

Rest of the day was a grind. Good to be back on the trail. Stayed at Spring Mtn shelter. Rain forecasted for the next few days, but trying for mile 300 tomorrow.

Monday, April 23, 2012

Day 23: 4/23/12

Miles today: 0.0
Total miles: 273.9

Took my first "zero day" today to rest. I didn't really want to take the day off, but I've been hiking for three straight weeks so it was time to rest, if only for good measure. So it was a day of quiet, of reading books, being bored, etc. Looking forward to getting back on the trail tomorrow.

Day 22: 4/22/12

Miles today: 3.2
Total miles: 273.9

Today Gravy, Animal, and I got up early and hoofed through the morning rain a few miles to Hot Springs, a little trail town that's right on the AT and had a HUGE breakfast. Resupplied food, got some gear (including new socks to replace the pair that a mouse had chewed a hole in) at the local outfitter, showered, did laundry, etc. then hung out at the bar while the rain fell outside. Stuffed my wet shoes with newspapers in hopes that I may have dry shoes for the first time in days.

Gravy and Animal are staying again tomorrow and are trying to convince me to stay another day tomorrow as well as not to break up our crew. With snow and more rain in tomorrow's forecast I just might do that. While my feet are in great condition it couldn't hurt to rest. We'll see tomorrow morning whether I'm determined to press on.

Staying the night at Sunnybank Inn, an old Victorian house that's sort of half hostel, half B&B.

Day 21: 4/21/12

Miles today: 14.8
Total miles: 270.7

Had fun at breakfast this morning, cracking jokes with Animal, Gravy, and Lieutenant Dan. The rest of the day was rather unremarkable: hiked, then hiked in the rain, then got to the shelter.

Tomorrow we head into Hot Springs, NC.

Day 20: 4/20/12

Miles today: 15.9
Total miles: 255.9

Solid hiking today. Left the hostel around 10:15, took my time. Immediately started steep uphill grind. Burly hike all day - uphill forever then downhill forever, up, down, etc. It's demanding but it helps if you can feel a rhythm, climbing up and down the ridge of mountains. That, and eat about metric ton of snicker bars and beef jerky.

At the end of the day was Max Patch summit: a climb to 4,629 feet, then an immense grassy bald that yielded 360-degree views of the surrounding mountains. Definitely the most beautiful, picturesque view I've seen since being on the trail. Photos below.

Camped at Roaring Fork shelter.

Friday, April 20, 2012

Day 19: 4/19/12

Miles today: 18.6
Total miles: 241.0

Last night I dreamt I was in an area that was being overrun by an invasive non-native species of frogs. It was up to me to cordon off the area to keep the frog population from spreading. I awoke from this dream to the sound of scores of (tree?) frogs chirping and croaking. Funny.

Today was a long day; more wet hiking but at least the rain had stopped. I had to stop several times to take care of my feet. In the end it was duct tape wrapped around my foot that prevented blisters.

After leaving the Smokies the trail overlapped and crossed under a few highways then led us to Standing Bear Farm. This place is rad; it's a hostel with showers, laundry, kitchen, store, etc. Nice reward for a long day's hike.

Day 18: 4/18/12

Miles today: 12.6
Total miles: 222.4

Not a great day today. Rained all day, so the "trail" was a stream.

Most people at the shelter this morning decided to take the day off. I figured I'm going to have to hike in the rain plenty of times over the next several months, so I might as well get started.

Left this morning with Gravy and Animal (pictured with me below). Gravy and I have made it to Tri-Corner Knob shelter, not sure if anyone else will make it here tonight.

Hopefully tomorrow will be a drier or warmer day.

Day 17: 4/17/12

Miles today: 13.8
Total miles: 209.8

Summited Clingman's Dome this morning. At 6,643 ft it's the highest point on the Appalachian Trail. Then hiked the rest of the day through lush pine forest. I was half expecting some Ewoks to pop out of the woods.

Staying at Icewater Spring shelter. It's pouring rain right now, but I was lucky enough to have set up my tent before it came down. I'm inside the shelter itself with about 20 others, hunkered down and huddling around a fire. Haven't hiked in full-on rain yet but it's coming. Maybe tomorrow.

I'll have just enough food to get out of the Smokies, then I've got a resupply package waiting for me at a nearby hostel where I hope to get a shower and do laundry. A few days later I'll be in Hot Springs for another resupply and some other town conveniences.

Most of us are already starting to obsess about food; I've burned off most of my body fat so staying fed is becoming the challenge that it will be for the next several months.

Day 16: 4/16/12

Miles today: 13.5
Total miles: 196

Nice hiking, the Smokies. Pretty scenery. Grass, nice open spaces, wildflowers. Deer are tame around here. I can't help but think, then, that maybe the bears are too.

On hot oatmeal: are you people crazy?? This stuff is terrible. Take some oats, pour water or milk over them and you've got something delicious. Oats have great flavor and texture. Then, you got "oatmeal," which, when hot, retains none of the aforementioned flavor or texture of oats. It becomes mush, gruel, "meal," as it were. It's got the consistency of snot and in the absence of real oats I've had to eat this crap. "Peaches and cream," "apple cinnamon" and the like? All a clever ruse to mask how ill hot oatmeal is. I only rant like this because every morning when I eat oats someone invariably asks me disgustedly, "you eat your oatmeal COLD??" YES, you hot oatmeal-eatin' sickos, I eat it cold and I'm going to keep doin' it that way until I die.

I'm just sayin'.


Day 15: 4/15/12

Miles today: 10.8
Total miles: 182.5

First full day in the Smokies, nothing exciting to report. Nice, easy hike today.

I'm really enjoying my new flipflops I scored at the last outfitter. They are lightweight and great for camp. They make me happy.

On Starbucks Via instant coffee: this stuff is RIGHT. The best instant coffee ever, I'm pretty sure it is the result of black magic.

Sunday, April 15, 2012

Day 14: 4/14/12

Miles today: 9.3
Total miles: 171.7

Good day today, lotta fun. Hiked down to Fontana Dam, met my cousins Kevin and Matt who drove up to visit me on the trail. They took me to Fontana Village to buy groceries, then we had lunch (cheeseburger and beer, hooray) and hit the trail. After crossing the dam and heading into the Smokies we climbed pretty much the biggest hill I've ever seen: Shuckstack mountain. The books say it's only 3800 ft but I'm pretty sure it was at least 96000 ft. There was a rickety fire tower at the top which Matt and I climbed to see the view but that thing was mega sketchy.

Kevin and Matt left me some jerky and some Crown Royal (thanks again, fellas, you made my week) then headed back down while I headed up to camp.

Day 13: 4/13/12

Miles today: 14.8
Total miles: 162.4

Another tough hike today. I'm realizing a phenomenon that's been happening lately: my math skills are terrible at the end of each day. The last 3 miles of a given day always seem to be more like 5 miles. Odd.

Gonna get up early tomorrow, hike 4 miles down to Fontana Dam to meet Matt and Kevin, then head into the Smokies.

It's been two weeks on the trail, having a great time.

Thursday, April 12, 2012

Day 12: 4/12/12

Miles today: 11.3
Total miles: 147.6

Started with a mile hike down to Nantahala Outdoor Center, an outfitter with a restaurant, etc, for breakfast and light resupply. Drank about a gallon of coffee.

The next 7+ miles were all uphill. It was fun for awhile, but I was bushed by the end of the day.

Closing in on the Smokies, just another day or two now.

Wednesday, April 11, 2012

Day 11: 4/11/12

Miles today: 15.5
Total miles: 136.3

Nothing particularly noteworthy today; just an extremely cold night and morning. Wore pretty much everything I had for most of the day.

Gnarly downhill climb at the end of the day. Stopped about a mile from Nantahala Outdoor Center, where I'll do a light resupply and get some breakfast.

Looking forward to seeing my cousins Kevin and Matt this weekend, and to entering Great Smoky Mountains national park.

Tuesday, April 10, 2012

Day 10: 4/10/12

Miles today: 11.0
Total miles: 120.8

Left Franklin, NC this morning, back on the trail by 10am.

The first picture here, from this morning's hike, is not photoshopped. You can't make that shit up.

Uphill climb to Wayah Bald. Nice views at the top. Pictured here atop Wayah from left: Mark, John, me, and Daniel. Mark, John and another guy Jacques or "Train Wreck" are all from Maine. They've all done Katahdin and it sounds pretty schweet. They've been calling me Chiba or "Cheebs" for short. I guess that's my new trail name.

Monday, April 9, 2012

Day 9: 4/9/12

Miles today: 9.1
Total miles: 109.8

Had a short hike this morning, then took a shuttle into Franklin, NC for resupply, shower (hooray), and laundry (hooray).

Staying at a motel tonight, ate at some restaurants, drank beer, typical town day. Daniel, Cricket and I agreed that we need to be back in the trail; coming into civilization after a week in the woods is weird and it confuses the mind. I can't imagine what coming back to the world after 5-6 months of trail life will be like. Whatever, now's not the time to care.

North Carolina has been fun, we're looking forward to hiking in the Smokies. We'll probably be there by the weekend.

Oh and it's effing COLD. Glad I haven't sent my cold weather sleeping bag yet.

Day 8: 4/8/12

Miles today: 14.3
Total miles: 100.7

North Carolina is some fun hiking. Very demanding, very difficult, but some great climbs with great views.

Today was pretty easy for most of the day, lots of flat terrain. But at the very end before reaching Big Spring shelter, we had to climb Albert Mountain. Basically a straight-upward climb up slippery rock. Tricky, but FUN. Great view from the top.

Tomorrow we'll head into Franklin, NC for resupply.

Day 7: 4/7/12

Miles today: 15.6
Total miles: 86.3

Made it into North Carolina today. Georgia, I barely knew ye.

Had to do a crappy job hanging my food, no good branches at this shelter. Hopefully I still have food when I wake up tomorrow.

Friday, April 6, 2012

Day 6: 4/6/12

Miles today: 12.1
Total miles: 70.7

Misty, foggy, cold morning hiking early on. Dreamy kind of scenery. Rained later on, got to test my rain gear, yay.

A group of three of us went into Hiawasse, GA to resupply today: Mickey, aka "Acid Glasses" from Columbus, OH; Daniel from Baden Würtemburg, Germany; and me. Then we were given a ride back to the trail and hiked another mile into camp.

After dinner I hung my first bear bag using the PCT method and freakin nailed it. See the attached picture, tell me you've seen a better hang than that, I dare you.

Next Mickey and Daniel's turn. It was funny as hell watching them have less beginner's luck than me. I could hear the Benny Hill theme playing while they tried to throw their rock over the branch.

Tomorrow we enter North Carolina.

Thursday, April 5, 2012

Day 5: 4/5/12

Miles today: 15.4
Total miles: 58.6

Long, grueling day today but already I feel my body adjusting. Today's hike would've been impossible just a few days ago. Really getting used to the terrain, which is far more demanding than I'd thought it would be. From some of the pictures I've posted this week one might look at the southern Appalachians and see mere pleasant rolling hills. But they're mountains, and when you hike one mile and gain 2000 ft in elevation you feel it. To climb five mountains in one day is a great hike.

Socializing continues to be a fun part of the day. I hike in solitude by day then meet up with others at camp. Tonight's crew is a small group, at Tray Mountain shelter. It's a beautiful campsite tonight. Among those present are "Balls" and "Sunshine," (trail aliases) a father-daughter duo. Last year they thru-hiked the PCT, and after this year's AT hike they'll attempt the CDT next year, making Sunshine the youngest person ever to achieve hiking's "triple crown."

The sun has set on day 5, so I'm going to sleep soon, no doubt to continue the trend of having the most vivid, weird, goofy, twisted, and crazy dreams that I've had since starting this trip.

Wednesday, April 4, 2012

Day 4: 4/4/12

Miles today: 11.5
Total miles: 43.2

Great hiking today, nice views, good weather. Made 11.5 miles by 1:00 but stopped for the day at Low Gap shelter, still wanting to pace myself this early on.

I lightened my pack weight by sending my bear canister home. So now I'll have to get crafty at hanging my food but it's worth it to have a lighter pack.

Had tortillas and sardines for lunch which was nasty tasty. I shall develop a penchant for those nasty little fishies.

Tuesday, April 3, 2012

Day 3: 4/3/12

Miles today: 7.4
Total miles: 31.7

Hiked Blood Mountain today. Great view from the top. Stopped at the outfitter at Neel Gap for resupply. Staying at the Walasi-Yi hostel tonight. Had intended to hike farther today but I'm bushed, and trying not to over-exert myself this early on.

Monday, April 2, 2012

Day 2: 4/2/12

Miles today: 12.1
Total miles: 24.3

A very social day today, met lots of thru-hikers, and a few section/day-hikers. Finished the day at Lance Creek. About 15 hikers are camped here tonight, it's a big party. An older dude named "Walking Man" is sitting here giving advice and telling stories while the youngsters gather 'round and listen. Kinda like being in Boy Scouts again.

More hard miles today, but I imagine it'll get easier over the next few weeks. Had some beautiful views today. I'm sure the picture I'm including doesn't do it any justice.

I left my tent door open. There are gnats in here. Sheeeeit.

Sunday, April 1, 2012

Day 1: 4/1/12

"We walk from here."
- Indiana Jones

Left Springer Mountain, Georgia this morning after a great weekend with my family in Atlanta. My sincerest gratitude to the Lyons: Kevin and Barbara, and Matt, Michelle, Kyle and Jacob for all the generous hospitality!

Miles hiked today: 12.2

I had intended to stop at Hawk Mtn. shelter for the day but was 2 miles past the shelter before I realized it was behind me. Oh well, at least I put in some extra miles. Gonna sleep well tonight.