Day 121: 7/30/12

Miles today: 15.0
Total miles: 1,635.4
Miles remaining: 548.8

Hiking today was work. But it didn't rain and I had some good views from Stratton Mountain.
Had another fun night at the shelter hanging out with the southbounders, who greatly outnumber us northbounders at this point.
Put in a solid fifteen miles today. I'll have a shorter day tomorrow; heading into Manchester Center, VT for resupply.

Staying at Stratton Pond shelter.

Day 120: 7/29/12

Miles today: 12.8
Total miles: 1,620.4
Miles remaining: 563.8

More rain today. My wet socks killed my toes. I'd like to have gone farther today but my toes were beat. Hopefully they'll be better tomorrow.
The forest was very pretty today and I was able to get some views of the surrounding mountains. It's becoming apparent that the weather is changing up here too. I'm wearing my jacket for the first time in months. The elevation is going to be a factor before too long. Reminds me a little of the southern mountains. That was only 3-4 months ago but out here it seems like ancient history.
Meeting more and more southbounders as I go. Cool guys. They've been giving advice on what's ahead. Can't wait.

Staying at Kid Gore shelter.

Day 119: 7/28/12

Miles today: 18.4
Total miles: 1,607.6

Got up and had breakfast with everyone then hit the trail. It was a good morning but the rest of the day was another dangerously slippery walk in the rain. I suspect the rest of the hike will be this way when it rains, and I have a feeling it's going to rain a lot.
I'm in Vermont now, the Green Mountains. 11 states down, 3 to go. Got to the shelter as it was getting dark. Met a southbound couple who didn't impress me. The guy wouldn't shake hands 'cause it wasn't clean or something but he was sitting Indian style on the picnic table with his dirty stanky feet on the table top. Charming. Oh well, not everybody is as cool as me, HAW HAW HAW.
Anyway, not the most fun day but I put in some good miles and made it to Vermont. That's a huge win. Only 576 miles to go!

Staying at Melville Nauheim shelter.

Day 118: 7/27/12

Miles today: 11.2
Total miles: 1,589.2

Kind of a rough day but it ended well. Broke camp in the rain and headed out by 8am. Everything was cold and wet, lots of thick fog. Rained most of the day. It made the forest very pretty but the trail was dangerously slippery. Difficult to find good footing. Rocks, roots, dirt, all slippery. I fell down a few times despite being very careful. No view from Mt. Greylock this morning, just a wall of fog. A disappointment but that happens out here. You can't win them all. I ran into Late For Dinner on the trail, he was doing a southbound slackpack from Adams to Dalton. I hadn't seen him since Harper's Ferry, and Damascus before that.
I got off the trail to stop in North Adams for laundry and resupply. Had dinner at a Chinese buffet, ran into Nokey, Sprinkles, and Testament. Hadn't seen them since Pawling, NY. Skrambo, Float, and Rose were there too, we had a good time.
Hiked up to a campsite a few miles up the trail and stopped for the day. Didn't make as many miles as I'd have liked, but we're only a few miles from the Vermont border so that's encouraging.

Camping at.....some campsite just north of North Adams, I can't remember the name.

Day 117: 7/26/12

Miles today: 9.2
Total miles: 1,578.0

Slept in this morning so I didn't put in many miles. Went into Cheshire with Skrambo, Float, and Rose. Had calzones and beer, then hiked up to the next shelter. I'll have to wait until tomorrow to summit Mt. Greylock. It's raining now and is supposed to tomorrow as well, but hopefully we'll still have a view from the top. Tomorrow should be my last day in Massachusetts unless I have another short day.

Camping near Mark Noepel shelter.

Day 116: 7/25/12

Miles today: 16.5
Total miles: 1,568.8

It was surprisingly cold and dry this morning, a refreshing change to the humidity. Beautiful weather for hiking. Hiked over Warner Hill and had a clear view of Mount Greylock, Massachusetts' highest peak. I'll summit that mountain tomorrow afternoon.
Made it into Dalton, MA this afternoon and stopped briefly for resupply. Didn't make it to the laundromat before it closed, a disappointment. But I did have a chance to stop at a pub for a giant reuben sandwich and two pints of IPA, a definite consolation prize. Afterwards I had just enough time to hike a quick four miles up the hill to a campsite (that has water - booyah) and set up my tent just before dark. There I saw Skinny Rambo and Float, who I'd seen a lot of in New York and Connecticut. They had a fire going, which made for a nice end to the day.
A productive day overall, dirty socks notwithstanding.

Camping at Crystal Mountain campsite.

Day 115: 7/24/12

Miles today: 18.7
Total miles: 1,552.3

Nothing particularly noteworthy today. Put in some good miles. Went for a swim in Goose Pond, which was more of a lake than a pond. That was actually very nice. Washed my clothes and my bad self while I was at it.
The trail was kinda boring today. Just a walk in the woods, no views or anything. Rained on and off.

Just another day at the office!

Camping near October Mountain shelter.

Day 114: 7/23/12

Miles today: 11.2
Total miles: 1,533.6

Shortened day. I awoke to a thunderstorm so I waited until it cleared up before I left. Didn't hit the trail until 11:20. I put in some good strong hiking all afternoon but the late start made it impossible to do many miles.
Water is still scarce but I did manage to make it into camp with almost four liters. It's a good thing, too, because there is no water source here. I should have just under a liter when I leave tomorrow. Oughtta be enough to get me started.
When I come home after all this and I see that I can get clean water anytime I want just by turning on a faucet I'm going to pause for a moment then shake my head and say "sheeeeit..."

On hiking the AT: I wonder whether I'm taking this journey for granted sometimes. Do I know what it is I'm doing? What effect it's having on me? Or am I even supposed to know at this point? Perhaps without the benefit of hindsight I couldn't know just what I'm doing, I can only do it. Yes, physically I know what I'm doing, I'm backpacking. Duh. But there is something more, something very meditative, something calming and simple, something basic and animal, something primal to just walking, walking, walking. You lose yourself during the day and every evening at camp it takes a good while to find your way back to your own mind. Difficult to explain. I'm curious to know what the lasting effects will be. But for now I'm just trying to enjoy every day. Because for as grueling and challenging as this is, it's getting better day by day.

Camping at Shaker campsite.

Day 113: 7/22/12

Miles today: 14.3
Total miles: 1,522.4

My feet hurt most of the day today. It was slow going until about 3:00 this afternoon. My left foot was killing me early on.
More pleasant Massachusetts forest today. Pine, lots of pine, with soft pine needly ground and that pine forest smell. Lots of rocky climbs again, which was nice but the sore foot didn't help. Today my pack weight was really an issue. There were very few water sources coming up so I left camp with over 3.5 liters. Water weighs about 2.5 lbs per liter so if my arithmetic serves, I'm carrying about eight tons.
Called it a day around 6:00 and am staying near a shelter that has a stream. Met some people from Grand Rapids, MI, hung out with them for a while.
A garden variety day on the trail today.

Camping near Tom Leonard shelter.

Day 112: 7/21/12

Miles today: 10.1
Total miles: 1,508.1

Made it to Massachusetts today. 10 states down, 4 to go. Low mileage today because I got a late start, stopped at several lookouts, made some wrong turns, and stopped early for the day. Also my pack is still very heavy after resupplying. Another good day overall today. Beautiful pine forests, nice views, and a stretch of the trail along exposed ridge line.
Lots of hikers at camp tonight, a few northbounders like me and a whole crew of southbounders, who we're seeing more and more of lately.

Camping near Glen Brook shelter.

Day 111: 7/20/12

Miles today: 14.6
Total miles: 1,498.0

Connecticut won me over today. The hiking was great, the weather was different, the views were spectacular, town was nice, got some good miles in, and had a very productive day overall.
Woke up early after a gentle rain fell through the night and into the morning. Went back to sleep in case it would stop but the weather called my bluff. I would have to get up and break camp in the rain. Turned out ok. It was a light rain after all.
The rain was a huge relief today. A welcome change from the heat. Not sweating for once, not having to drink 45 gallons of water, feeling cold air for a change - so nice.
I took a wrong turn early on and added probably at least a mile to my day. Whoops. Went ten miles to the town of Salisbury for resupply. Nice little town, very New England. Bought a ton of food from their local grocery, 5 days' worth. My pack now weighs approx. one thousand lbs.
I was tempted to call for a shuttle to a local hostel I'd seen advertised, but it was only about 4:30, early enough to hike some more. Did a 1,000-ft climb out of town, and had a magnificent view from the top, known as Lion's Head. The best view I've had in a long time on the AT. Hung out there with two local guys from Hartford, Ray and Rob. Cool dudes. Funny guys.
After the view hiked a quick .7 miles to camp. That was a beautiful stretch of trail. The mountain laurel, the rocky grade of the trail itself, the color of the sky at dusk, the fresh air - really nice end to the day.
Had a good conversation at the shelter with this guy Dave, who thru-hiked the AT and the PCT in the early nineties.
Hoping my tent dries tonight. Looking forward to breakfast tomorrow, I put a LOT of brown sugar in my oat mix.

Today was what a day on the AT ought to be.

Camping near Riga shelter.

Day 110: 7/19/12

Miles today: 15.2
Total miles: 1,483.4

Weather was cooler today, a huge relief. I got a late start around 9am but still put in a good day's miles. The days are becoming noticeably shorter as summer wears on, but for now I'm still able to hike until at least 7pm.
Tomorrow will likely be my last full day in Connecticut. My observations of this state's section of the trail: heat, mosquitoes, dry springs, more up-and-down climbing (i.e. I'm back in the mountains), not rocky (yay), more coniferous forest than before.

Camping at Belter's Campsite

Day 109: 7/18/12

Miles today: 8.3
Total miles: 1,468.2

Short day today. Just after lunch I passed a shelter and had gone maybe 1/3 of a mile when a massive thunderstorm hit. I thought of pressing on but decided to go back to the shelter, a decision I would not regret. The thunder and lightning were as intense as I've seen out here on the trail, something I didn't care to walk in. Rain is one thing but lightning = nope.
So I stayed in the shelter all afternoon. Hopefully all that rain will fill a spring or two; I met a southbound thru-hiker today who said Massachusetts is as dry as Connecticut has been. We'll see. I should be there by this weekend sometime.

Staying at Stewart Hollow Brook shelter.

Day 108: 7/17/12

Miles today: 17.1
Total miles: 1,459.9

Crossed into Connecticut today. 9 states down, 5 to go.
Lots of bugs, hot, no water. Details unnecessary.

Camping at Thayer Brook.

Day 107: 7/16/12

Miles today: 2.4
Total miles: 1,442.8

Busy day today. Got up early, took the morning commuter train into NYC. Love that town, such great energy there. Took the subway from grand central to soho to visit the REI store there. Big store, I geeked out on all the hiking gear like a kid in a candy store. They replaced my backpack, sleeping pad, and trekking poles, and I got some other odds and ends. My new backpack is the same model as my old one but it's far more comfortable. Nice fresh new shoulder strap padding. That, and it doesn't smell like a duffel bag fulla hockey gear the way my old one had.
I must admit, it was fun walking around in an urban scene in my hiking gear and gnarly hippie beard, wearing my backpack around Times Square like a BOSS.
New gear in hand (or on back, if you will), I headed up to Midtown to visit my work colleagues at Frank, Rimerman + Co's New York office. There I met with Sangini, Marc, and Jose, all of whom I probably hadn't seen in over a year. We went to a super awesome deli for lunch and I quelled my hiker appetite with a turkey sangwich (not a typo - still in New York, remember). Afterwards we went back to the office for a video call with my IT colleagues back in California, that was cool to see them again.
When the day was done I took the train back to Pawling and headed back toward the trail. I did have to make one final stop at an Italian deli to get one more New York sangwich.
Hiked a quick couple of miles then set up camp at a garden center/nursery that is hiker-friendly.
Tomorrow will be my last day in New York. It's been a challenge, this state, but it's very pretty here and I've had a lot of fun. New Yorkers have been some of the coolest, most generous people I've encountered on the trail.

Camping at Native Landscapes and Garden Centers.

Day 106: 7/15/12

Miles today: 12.9
Total miles: 1,440.4

Got up early and headed to Pawling, NY to clean up and resupply. It was a three mile walk from the trail to town but as soon as I started walking someone pulled up alongside me and offered me a ride. That made my day. It was a tough walk this morning so not having to walk those extra off-trail miles really helped. In town I did laundry - HOO-FRIGGIN-RAY. Then bought some food, then hung out at the tavern with fellow hikers. It was pouring rain all afternoon but I was in a town drinking beer, not hiking in it, woohoo!
Tonight we took a quick cab ride to a local park that lets hikers camp for free. It's still raining but we were able to set up our tents under a covered pavilion. Pawling, NY for the win. This town has been good to me.
Tomorrow I'll get up early and take the train into NYC for the day.

I cannot begin to describe how happy and relieved I am to have clean clothes right now.

Camping at Edward R Murrow Memorial Park in Pawling, NY.

Day 105: 7/14/12

Miles today: 15.3
Total miles: 1,427.5

Nothing major today. Just walked.

Camping .5 mile south of N.Y. 52.

Day 104: 7/13/12

Miles today: 17.3
Total miles: 1,412.2

Another hard day. But the hard days are the most valuable. If this thing were easy it'd have no value. Started early and headed toward Peekskill, which would be a resupply point. Crossed the Hudson River early on and had another five miles before the store. I ran out of food and had to tough it out until I could buy more. In the meantime I ate lots of berries when I could find them along the trail.
Came to the grocery, which was just a gas station so my resupply was just pop tarts, ramen, and payday bars, but it also had a huge deli inside. So before I got back on the trail I had a big hoagie (or "sangwich" as it's known in NY), a pint of ice cream and two liters of ginger ale. Got back on the trail and put in the rest of my miles.
When it was time to camp I found a nice campsite just off a road crossing up a dirt road. Just after I set up my tent I heard a big truck pull up that dirt road (that had a sign that read "no motor vehicles") into the camping area. The song "highway to the danger zone" was blasting from the truck. "Here we go," I told myself. An evening with loud rowdy locals when all I wanted to do was sleep. But these guys turned out to be really cool. They weren't loud at all. And they invited me to hang out with them for a few. They gave me beer, steak, sausage, and bacon. I'm continually being taught lessons in random acts of kindness out here.

Camping off Dennytown Road.

Day 103: 7/12/12

Miles today: 12.6
Total miles: 1,394.9

An addendum to yesterday's entry:
Last night I got a call from Incline, a guy I was walking with in VA for awhile. He had to leave the trail but he lives in this area and knew I was close. So he calls and offers to bring us beer, snacks, water (which is like liquid gold around here) and whatever else I needed. So I told him where we were and sure enough he brings a case of beer, several gallons of water, and a bunch of food to us. Unbelievably cool thing to do. So these guys Nokey, Catnap, Testament, and I schlepped all these goodies back up to the shelter and had a fun time. Incline, you are the man.

This morning we were hung over and got a late start. About a mile into today's hike we stopped at Harriman state park to take showers, charge phones and order pizza. Rough day. At about noon we finally decided to get going. Another tough hike today but it ended with a beautiful climb up to Bear Mountain. Great views, nice hiking, great weather. A nice end to the day.

I have almost no food. I have a packet of tuna, a little oatmeal, and some hot sauce. This makes for a very light backpack. Sad then, that I will have to resupply tomorrow.

Camping on top of Bear Mountain.

Day 102: 7/11/12

Miles today: 15.3
Total miles: 1,382.3

New York has been some of the toughest hiking on the trail so far. Mostly rock climbing, punctuated by short sections of flat terrain.
Water continues to be hard to find. Sometimes you'll find several gallons sitting next to the trail at road crossings that people have left for hikers. That's a godsend.
At least I'm getting my climbing legs back after losing them in flat Pennsylvania.

Staying at Fingerboard shelter.

Day 101: 7/10/12

Miles today: 15.7
Total miles: 1,368.0

Had a cool night under the stars last night atop Wawayanda Mountain. Not a spectacular night sky, but it was cool sleeping in my tent without the rain fly; I could see everything. Privacy wasn't an issue because there wasn't another living soul on top of that mountain. Very cool, I'll have to do more of that.
This morning I did an easy eight miles and crossed the border into New York. 8 states down, 6 to go. The rest of the day's miles were hard-won and slow. I was doing about one mile an hour for much of the day, less than half my average speed. It was a brutal bouldering challenge that made my feet want to cry. Toes too. But it was a pretty hike, and the views were the best I've seen in a while. From one view over Greenwood Lake I could see the NYC skyline in the distance. Very clear day.
The hiking was so rough that I skipped my resupply. I may regret the results of that decision but I don't regret that decision. It would've taken too long to get in and out of town. But I did stop off at Bellvale Creamery, a local ice cream joint that was supposed to have some super duper creamy ice. It did indeed. I had two large sundaes and a buncha soda. I took a nice long break there and had some good conversation with several locals.
Afterwards I hiked a few more miles and called it a day. Set up my tent and jumped in just as it started pouring rain. Nice timing, eh?

Camping near Wildcat shelter.

Day 100: 7/9/12

Miles today: 15.0
Total miles: 1,352.0

Tough day. The miles just weren't coming. I'd walk for two hours only to have hiked a mile. Four hours, only six miles. By dinnertime I'd only done ten. I was going to call it a day at that point but I wanted to put in a few more, plus I had some daylight left.
At about 7:30, with an hour or so of light left I decided to climb Wawayanda Mountain. Kind of a mistake since it ended up being very difficult and time consuming, leaving me virtually no time to set up camp. It is nice, though, at the top of this mountain. I didn't do a great job of hanging my food, but I've got my tent set up nearby and I left my rainfly off so I can see any bears trying to get at my food. I know there are bears around; I saw a mother bear and four cubs at the base of this mountain. Hopefully I won't have to scare any off tonight.
Water is still hard to come by. I've started carrying three liters instead of two, which adds weight but has proven necessary.
Tomorrow will be my last day in New Jersey.

Camping at the summit of Wawayanda Mountain.

Day 99: 7/8/12

Miles today: 18.3
Total miles: 1,337.3

Hard-earned miles today. New Jersey is beating up on me. Banged my shin on a log, constant bleeding from one mosquito bite or another, incredibly sore right foot, and some gnarly shoulder strap rash on both shoulders. That last one is mostly from heat and humidity but probably also because I haven't washed my pack at all. I'll need to start doing that once I get my replacement pack in a few days.
Slow hiking today because of all the rocks. That seems to be a recurring theme these days. But the last five miles or so were much nicer on the feet.
At the end of the day I came upon a real gem on the AT. Just off the trail is a property owned by some dude named Jim Murray. He's a former thru-hiker who bought a big farm and cabin for hikers to stay at for free. I'm tenting here under a big open sky, hoping to see some stars. There's also a well with some tasty cold water, a real treat these days.
Tomorrow will probably be my last full day in New Jersey. It's been nice hiking here, the ticks notwithstanding.

I'm sleeping in tomorrow. It is decided.

Camping at Jim Murray's property, about two miles south of Lott Rd in Unionville, NY.

Day 98: 7/7/12

Miles today: 13.1
Total miles: 1,319.0

Challenging day today. Couldn't find water when I needed to. It was there, but side trails to springs weren't marked so I went without water for awhile. I've been filling up all bottles every chance I get and strategizing where I start and stop each day based on where the water is.
At lunchtime I came to a road crossing where there was a nice tavern so I stopped and had some pints (I know, I know, I shouldn't drink alcohol when water is hard to come by, sue me). Had fun talking to the locals there. Hearing the east coast accents instead of southern accents is a good indication of the progress I've made, distance-wise.
Having a few gear challenges. I need a new backpack; one of my main zippers is broken so I'm working with REI to score a free replacement when I'm in NYC next week. Lots of phone calls, shipping complications, etc. But it's all good, I'll get it worked out one way or another. During a trip this long gear issues happen to everybody, no big deal.
Came to a shelter later on and had dinner but didn't dare hike any farther today; it's a long way to the next water source so I'm going to wait until after breakfast before I hike on. Plus it's a fun group at the shelter tonight. Lately I've been keeping to myself, enjoying my solitude, but dinner tonight was a good social scene.

Camping near Gren Anderson shelter.

Day 97: 7/6/12

Miles today: 18.3
Total miles: 1,305.9

Left Pennsylvania and entered New Jersey today. 7 states down, 7 to go. Did some good miles today in spite of more hot weather and rocky terrain.
NJ would have really impressed me if not for all the ticks. I pulled more ticks off my socks and legs today than I thought I would this entire trip. I wasn't bitten but still I felt violated. I mean, if you're going to bite me and suck my blood you should at least have the decency to turn me into a vampire and grant me cool powers, like having a chocolaty cereal named after me. Or sump'n.
Finished the day exhausted. Found a well with a pump, cold water - a real treat. That was nice after a long hot day. Made dinner then hiked on and set up camp.

Camping near the AT .5 mile north of Blue Mountain Lakes Rd.

Day 96: 7/5/12

Miles today: 15.6
Total miles: 1,287.6

After Clint dropped me off at the trailhead this morning it was instant rock climbing again. A steep climb up, then several miles of rocky terrain.
At the end of the day I came to Delaware Water Gap, a small town on the PA-NJ border. I'm staying at a hostel run by the local Presbyterian church. And get this - every Thursday (today) they have a big potluck for hikers. Jackpot! So I had a marvelous dinner, then ran down to the local outfitter to buy new shoes. That's my third pair so far! I'll probably have gone through 4-5 pairs by the time this trip is over.

Tomorrow I cross into New Jersey.

Day 95: 7/4/12

Miles today: 0.0
Total miles: 1,272.0

A great day off the trail today. More good times with Clint, Erika, and little Ollie. Erika cooked a righteous breakfast, a great beginning to a great day. We all hung out and relaxed for the rest of the morning, and in the afternoon was a welcome surprise - Erika gave me a massage! Turns out she's a licensed massage therapist. How lucky can a weary hiker get?! That couldn't have worked out better if she were a licensed sherpa and offered to carry my backpack the whole rest of the trip. So now I feel super relaxed and ready to own the trail tomorrow.
Later on we went out for ice cream, took Oliver to the park, and came back to their place for dinner. As I was drinking a beer while Clint was grilling sausages I realized: Men + grilling meat + beer + 4th of July = a good day.
I went to bed early after two full days of being pampered and spoiled. Clint and Erika, if you're reading this, thank you so much for your hospitality. I can't tell you how much it means to me to come off the trail and be met with such wonderful generosity and friendship. Cheers!

Day 94: 7/3/12

Miles today: 1.2
Total miles: 1,272.0

Had a quick walk into Wind Gap, where I met my friend Clint, who lives in nearby Bethlehem, PA. Clint is one of my friends from college. It was great to see him; we hadn't seen each other since about eight or nine years ago when he visited Irvine, CA back when I lived in San Diego.
We had breakfast and shot the breeze and got caught up on each other's happenings. Then we went back to his place for me to clean up and join the ranks of civilized humans for a few days. For lunch we met his wife Erika. I hadn't met her before, so that was a real pleasure. Likewise I hadn't yet met their 17-month-old son Oliver. We picked him up at daycare later on and had fun getting to know each other.
For dinner they spoiled me with grilled steak and vegetables (and beer!!).
Tomorrow should be another fun day. I get to relax, take a day off the trail and hang with my friends on the 4th.

Day 93: 7/2/12

Miles today: 20.1
Total miles: 1,270.8

A long day today. Got up before 5, hit the trail at 6am sharp. That turned out to be a good idea. There was a huge rock climb up Blue Mountain early on that would have been torture in the heat later in the day.
Once atop Blue Mountain the elevation leveled out but the rocky terrain remained difficult. So I took my time and made slow progress. I was so slow and sluggish that I stopped and took a nap in case that would help. It seemed to; my pace picked up in the afternoon.
Once I arrived at the Leroy Smith shelter to get water and make dinner I ran into Wiseguy, who I hadn't seen since Harper's Ferry. We ate, told stories of what we'd seen and done in Pennsylvania, then I hiked on a few more miles. I should see him again at Delaware Water Gap in a few days.
In the meantime I'm really looking forward to seeing my friend Clint. He lives nearby so I'm going to meet up with him tomorrow. I haven't met his wife Erika or his son Oliver yet, so I look forward to meeting them as well. Should be a great time!

Camping near the AT a few miles from Wind Gap.

Day 92: 7/1/12

Miles today: 12.7
Total miles: 1,250.7

Frustrating day. Heat, terrain, and scarcity of water made for slow miles. But that's ok, I just need to be patient. These last miles in Pennsylvania are among the toughest on the AT, so I just need to take the boulder fields and dried-up springs as they come.
I intend to rise early tomorrow; my first few miles are a steep 1,200-ft climb up a rocky mountainside that is completely exposed. If I dally and don't get there until the sun is hot it will be even more difficult. Should be a fun challenge.

Camping near George W. Outerbridge shelter.