Day 152: 8/30/12

Miles today: 3.7
Total miles: 1,967.5
Miles remaining: 216.7

Had to sacrifice miles for rest, resupply, and laundry today. Had a late breakfast at a diner and got a ride from this dude Gary who took me to the grocery store, then the laundromat, then dropped me off back at the trail. Nice guy. People in Rangeley were really nice to the hiker community.
Got back on the trail for a few hours, made camp as the sun was going down. Couldn't hang my food; I lost my rope and carabiner up a tree while hanging my line tonight. That's like the fifth time I've done that out here. So I've got my food by my tent instead so I can shoo away anything that wants to steal it. Hopefully I won't be bothered by any critters. Living in the woods is not without its disadvantages.

Camping near the AT close to Eddy Pond.

Day 151: 8/29/12

Miles today: 13.1
Total miles: 1,963.8
Miles remaining: 220.4

Some quick, easy miles today. Hiked into Rangeley, ME for resupply and laundry. Feeling sick today but I'll be ok.

Staying at Town & Lake Motel in Rangeley, ME.

Day 150: 8/28/12

Miles today: 10.5
Total miles: 1,950.7
Miles remaining: 233.5

More burly terrain today, typical for southern Maine. Climbed a few mountains, nothing serious. Otherwise just a lot of rock scrambles, roots, and mud. It rained for a few hours today but it cleared up in the afternoon.
Starting to get views of lakes and some fall color. I'm sure the leaves will be changing in the next few weeks. Should be beautiful.

Camping near the AT just south of Maine highway 17.

Day 149: 8/27/12

Miles today: 12.9
Total miles: 1,940.2
Miles remaining: 244.0

Rude (adj.): that moment when one awakes at 4am to the sensation of a mouse crawling on his/her forehead. I've been lazy lately and haven't been hanging my food; just been keeping it in my tent. Bad move. This morning a mouse chewed through my tent to get at my food bag. It didn't get any food but it crawled on my head and freaked me the hell out. I switched on my headlamp and let the little guy out of my tent but I couldn't get back to sleep. Always hang your food, boys and girls.
Good terrain today. Did some decent miles. Two huge uphill climbs but nothing too serious. Tomorrow should be a fairly easy day. Gonna try to do some bigger miles.

Camping on top of Old Blue Mountain.

Day 148: 8/26/12

Miles today: 10.3
Total miles: 1,927.3
Miles remaining: 256.9

Good solid hike today. Got some extra sleep last night and left late this morning.
Hiked over Baldpate Mountain then had some nice, easy miles afterward.
Got into camp to find Testament and Man Boy building a fire, the first campfire I've had in awhile. Man Boy had made a trip into town and scored junk food and soda, which was just what I needed.
Gonna sleep well tonight.

Camping near the AT just south of East B Hill Road.

Day 147: 8/25/12

Miles today: 9.7
Total miles: 1,917.0
Miles remaining: 267.2

A hard day. Had to dig deep for this one. Started the day by hiking through the infamous Mahoosuc Notch, dubbed "the hardest mile on the AT." It's a labyrinth of a rock scramble that requires as much climbing with one's hands as one's feet. You have to take your pack off several times to squeeze through rocky crevasses and caves. I don't know whether it's the most difficult mile I've had on the trail but it was definitely one of the most dangerous. If I had to guess I'd day that "Mahoosuc" is the Indian word for "death trap." But I made it through alive.
The rest of the day was more rock scrambles and mountain climbing, all slow miles.
Testament, Man Boy, and I set up camp near a road crossing, had a cold beer courtesy of some trail magic, and hit the hay without making dinner. We're all too exhausted to eat. Sleep is wonderful.

Camping at Grafton Notch near Maine highway 26.

Day 146: 8/24/12

Miles today: 9.6
Total miles: 1,907.3
Miles remaining: 276.9

MAINE. I've arrived. 13 states down, 1 to go. Started the day by crossing the 1900-mile mark atop the aptly-named Mt. Success. A few miles later we crossed the state line.
The rest of the day was rocky climbs and descents, just what I'd expected from southern Maine. Looking forward to the rest of this state and reaching the finish line.

Camping near Full Goose shelter.

Day 145: 8/23/12

"North! North, Miss Tessmacher, NORTH!"
- Lex Luthor

Miles today: 11.8
Total miles: 1,897.7
Miles remaining: 286.5

Left the hostel late this morning and put in some decent miles. The trail was an actual trail today, not a rock climb.
Nothing special, just a walk in the woods. Only a few miles left in New Hampshire. North!

Staying at Gentian Pond shelter.

Day 144: 8/22/12

Miles today: 8.0
Total miles: 1,885.9
Miles remaining: 298.3

Easy walk today. Had a climb up and over Mt. Moriah which had a nasty downhill, but the rest of the way was flat and easy. Got off the trail at Gorham, NH and checked in at the White Mountain Lodge hostel, a top-notch hiker haven. They drove us into town for resupply then picked us up after dinner. Breakfast is included, score!
Tomorrow, we walk. This weekend: Maine.

Staying at White Mountain Lodge hostel.

Day 143: 8/21/12

Miles today: 11.4
Total miles: 1,877.9
Miles remaining: 306.3

The hiking here is extreme. Like chug-a-gallon-of-mountain-dew-then-go-win-the-Xgames extreme. I do wish I'd had some kind of rock climbing experience at this point. Very climby, not so hikey, the trail these days. Much of it is crazy steep. I love the uphill stuff but the downhills just seem like nature's death trap to me. But it's super fun too.
I'm feeling anxious now, frustrated by the low-mileage days and starting to think of the finish line. I've been hearing about some of the terrain coming up, and it sounds extreme. Really looking forward to Maine.

Staying at Imp shelter.

Day 142: 8/20/12

Miles today: 9.5
Total miles: 1,866.5
Miles remaining: 317.7

Sloooow miles today. I did three miles in my first five hours. More ridiculous rock climbs and scrambles. Started up Wildcat Mountain this afternoon but set up camp halfway up so that I could get to sleep at a reasonable hour. They call this "stealth camping," when you camp where technically you're not allowed to. But whatever, I'm following Leave No Trace guidelines so no one will know I was even here.

Camping near the AT halfway up Wildcat Mountain.

Day 141: 8/19/12

Miles today: 11.8
Total miles: 1,857.0
Miles remaining: 327.2

Epic hike today. Clear skies, huge views. One of my favorite days on the trail. Just unbelievable. We left camp this morning to tackle Mt. Washington. At 6,288 ft it's the biggest of the White Mountains and the second highest peak on the entire AT. Only Clingman's Dome way back in the Smokies was taller. The views from the ridge up to Washington were spectacular. This is notoriously bad-weather territory so to have clear blue skies was fortuitous. I haven't the words to describe what I saw or how alive I felt today. I'll remember this day for the rest of my life.
Other mountains climbed today were Mt. Pierce, Mt. Franklin, Mt. Jefferson, and Mt. Madison, each with its own challenges and rewarding views.
At the end of the day I stopped at Madison Spring hut with several other thru-hikers for work-for-stay. Washed dishes in exchange for dinner and a floor to sleep on. It's nice to be with the hiker community at the end of a day like this to unwind with.

Epic day today.

Staying at Madison Spring hut.

Day 140: 8/18/11

Miles today: 14.1
Total miles: 1,845.2
Miles remaining: 339.0

Today was fun. Had some flat stretches early on so I was able to put in more miles than usual. Later in the day were more climbs and spectacular views. Good, solid rock climbing up Mt. Webster and Mt. Jackson. From the peaks you look around and just see an endless sea of mountains.
Had some trail magic near a road crossing today, people giving out soda, beer, and snacks. That was cool. The generosity of people near the trail never ceases.

Camping near Mizpah Spring hut.

Day 139: 8/17/12

Miles today: 9.7
Total miles: 1,831.1
Miles remaining: 353.1

Typical gnarly day in New Hampshire, except no rain! Well, almost no rain. Started the day by hiking down a waterfall. Huh? Yes, the "trail" was a waterfall. Steep rocks with a river cascading down them. The other guys I've been hiking with were planning for a 15-mile day but I knew early on I wouldn't be making it that far. These steep rocky ups and downs take me forever.
Had another steep climb up today, South Twin Mountain. Good stiff climb, only .8 but it took me almost an hour. Great view from the top.
Had a scare with a section hiker right behind me who fell down on the rocks and cut his head open. I helped him clean it with alcohol and gave him a bandana to wrap it up and apply pressure but we needed to get him to some proper first aid. Luckily an AMC (Appalachian Mountain Club) hut was nearby.
Had a fairly easy hike the rest of the day down to an AMC hut, which there are half a dozen or so of in the Whites.
They're basically vacation spots for people to stay in while they're hiking in the mountains. Got the injured hiker the first aid he needed. He'll need stitches for sure, that was nasty.
Thru-hikers get to stay at the huts in exchange for work, so I'm doing that. In exchange for dinner and a place to stay I had to wipe down some shelves. That's it! Sweet!

Staying at Zealand AMC hut.

Day 138: 8/16/12

"Live Free or Die"
- New Hampshire state motto

Miles today: 10.3
Total miles: 1,821.4
Miles remaining: 362.8

One of my hardest days on the trail so far, both mentally and physically. Climbed Little Haystack Mountain, Mt. Lincoln, Mt. Lafayette, and Mount Garfield. Demanding climbs and brutal weather. Once we were up on Franconia Ridge, an above-treeline exposed section with awe-inspiring views, we hit high winds and a thunderstorm that killed any hope of a view from the ridgeline. We did have brief windows of visibility on Lincoln and Garfield so I took what photos I could. The rest of the day was cold wind and rain and slippery rock climbs.
Mentally I was beaten by the weather and sorely disappointed by the missed views, but by the end of the day I'd decided to move on and forget all that. Sometimes freedom means letting go and letting the chips fall where they may. To free yourself from what you want and instead to embrace what you get. Not as an act of defeat, but to take solace in knowing that which matters most: after all the adversity of a day like today, I am still standing. Live free or die. And I'm alive and well.

Staying at Garfield Ridge shelter.

Day 137: 8/15/12

Miles today: 0.0
Total miles: 1,811.1
Miles remaining: 373.1

Took the day off in Lincoln, NH to resupply, hit the outfitter, and wait out some bad weather. Had a good time with all the fellow hikers in town.
Some more burly mountain climbing to do tomorrow. I can't wait. Hopefully the weather will cooperate.

Staying at Chet's Place hostel in Lincoln.

Day 136: 8/14/12

Miles today: 8.8
Total miles: 1,811.1
Miles remaining: 373.1

Slow miles again, which is how it's going to stay in the White Mountains. A hand-over-hand climb up Kinsman Peak to start the day was super-fun. Kind of a busy day on the mountain. Lots of day hikers, all stopping me to ask questions about my thru-hike. That's always flattering. At one point a camera crew for a local public tv station stopped me for an interview. I was coming down the mountain; they were going up. They had some stones, hauling all that camera gear up that climb.
Took a break at Lonesome Lake hut, run by the Appalachian Mountain Club. Nice place.
Had some nice views today, but photos do no justice. Below is a picture of Franconia Ridge, my next big climb coming up. I'm taking the day off tomorrow to resupply and wait out some bad weather. Hopefully it'll clear up when I'm back up at higher elevations.

Staying at Chet's Place hostel in Lincoln, NH

Day 135: 8/13/12

Miles today: 9.0
Total miles: 1,802.3
Miles remaining: 381.9

Hard hiking today. Eight solid hours of hiking not including breaks and only nine miles to show for it. But these are hard miles. They say that New Hampshire is among the most difficult sections of the AT and they mean it. Steep climbs. Using your hands for much of it. Trekking poles were useless for half the day.
Got to the shelter around 5:30, exhausted. Made dinner, now I'm ready to crash.

Staying at Eliza Brook shelter.

Day 134: 8/12/12

Miles today: 12.9
Total miles: 1,793.3
Miles remaining: 390.9

A good day overall. This morning Testament and I broke camp, put on our wet shoes and socks, and hit the trail with the intention of going to a nearby hostel to dry out our gear. But when the skies cleared and the sun came out we decided that we'd keep going and head up Mt. Moosilauke, with its stunning views and 4,802-ft elevation.
The 4-mile, 3800-ft climb up the mountain was fun. Just the right amount of challenge. It was probably the most massive climb I've seen yet on the trail. Just before we reached the summit, however, a storm rolled in and deprived us of the view. I can't lie, that was a crushing, bitter disappointment. But that happens out here, particularly at higher elevations. You can't win them all.
The climb down the mountain was beautiful. The trail was steep and rocky but it was good to be getting down off the peak, away from the thunder and lightning. Safety first!
Our consolation prize was a beautiful view of the surrounding mountains from the shelter, a taste of what we'd missed at the summit.
More epic climbs to come, may they give us great views and clear skies!

Staying at Beaver Brook shelter.

Day 133: 8/11/12

Miles today: 15.0
Total miles: 1,780.4
Miles remaining: 403.8

Another rough day. Easier climbs today, but climbs nonetheless. And more rain. A dark, wet day. But it was warmer so that helped. It felt good to stop and make camp tonight, to eat dinner and to lie down. I'm exhausted.

Camping near where the AT crosses NH highway 25C.

Day 132: 8/10/12

Miles today: 6.7
Total miles: 1,765.4
Miles remaining: 418.8

Short, tough day. We got a late start because of thunderstorms then had a slow, slippery climb up Smarts Mountain, one of my toughest climbs on the trail up until this point. The trail was a river, and the rock climbs were waterfalls. I've done well hiking in the rain lately but not today. It was cold and demoralizing and the miles were hard-earned. But I didn't have any falls, which was my biggest worry on the slippery rocks.
At the top of the mountain was a shelter that we're staying at. It's an enclosed shelter with four walls(!) so we're able to stay warm. Hopefully my clothes will dry out before tomorrow morning.
Anyway, tomorrow's a new day so today's hardship will be a distant memory in no time.

Staying at Smart's Mountain shelter.

Day 131: 8/9/12

Miles today: 15.2
Total miles: 1,758.7
Miles remaining: 425.5

A rather unremarkable day hiking-wise, but it's been fun walking with the same group for awhile. The weather was kinda crappy, rained on and off today. But hopefully if it rains now it'll clear up for all the great views coming up. It'd be a huge disappointment to have bad weather in the Whites. I'm told if that happens to wait it out and hike up once the rain stops.
Made it to camp and set up my tent just before the rain started up again. Gotta love that. Too rainy to cook dinner, but I'll be asleep in no time. Not gonna sweat that. Plus it saves some fuel.
Today was a good day overall. The guys I've been hanging out with keep me laughing. When I look back at this that's what I'll remember, not whether it was raining.

Camping near Trapper John shelter.

Day 130: 8/8/12

Miles today: 1.5
Total miles: 1,743.5
Miles remaining: 440.7

Left Warren's place this morning and headed back into Hanover. Had breakfast at a diner with Testament, Man Boy, and Voice. Breakfast food in town is always the shizznittohotdiggitydawggydizzawg.
After breakfast took a bus into West Lebanon to the EMS outfitter. Got new shoes - my fourth, and likely final, pair this hike. And some other odds and ends and such.
Back in town I went to the post office to pick up my cold-weather sleeping bag (thanks Mom & Dad for sending!) and send back my summer bag. Sad to see that small, light bag go but it is good to see my old bag again, gonna need it for some cold nights coming up. I remember the last time I used it, just before Bland, VA. Seems like a long time ago.
We went out for pizza and beer, then went for food resupply. We had just enough time to get back on the trail to find a camp spot. And that was Hanover.

Camping near Velvet Rocks shelter.

Day 129: 8/7/12

Miles today: 9.8
Total miles: 1,742.0
Miles remaining: 442.2

A shortened day into town. Vermont said goodbye kindly, offering us a nice, easy hike through the woods. Passed through Norwich, VT and crossed the Connecticut River into New Hampshire. 12 states down, 2 to go.
It was mentally difficult coming into Hanover, NH because I was so zoned out from the trail. That happens a lot when I come directly from hiking into having to interact, to speak, to assess situations, and to make decisions. It takes the mind a few hours to change gears so sometimes getting into town is tough upon first arrival.
Anyway, we walked around town, a college town, a noisy, crowded place. Grabbed a cheeseburger and a beer as I am wont to do then stopped by an outfitter, got some new pants, hurrah!
We found a hiker board that listed names of people in town who let hikers stay at their place. Called this dude Warren who came and picked us up and took us to his place. So generous that people do this. Got the ever-awesome shower and laundry. Tomorrow I'll do some more gear shopping. Gotta get some things and stuff.

Staying at Warren Thayer's place in Norwich.

Day 128: 8/6/12

Miles today: 11.1
Total miles: 1,732.2
Miles remaining: 452.0

Got up late today on purpose. We were tired from a late day yesterday. Before we broke camp this morning Man Boy hitched a mile to a deli and showed up back at camp with breakfast sandwiches. Great start to the day. I hiked with Voice and Man Boy again today. They're a couple of 18-year-olds from Pennsylvania, just out of high school. Funny guys.
We could have done more miles today but we deferred those miles to tomorrow since we're just going into town anyway. Once in town I'll resupply and replace some gear. It's funny, all this equipment and I'm outlasting all of it. Shoes, clothes, backpacks, I'm wearing it all out until it's literally falling off of me. But me, I am still here.

On conditioning and the hiker's body: it's a real joy to be able to experience firsthand what the body can do. I won't be able to sustain this once I'm finished, of course, but for now I can handle any climb set before me. I can gain thousands of feet in elevation without stopping, being out of breath, or having my heart rate race out of control. I'm as lean as I've ever been, and my weight has decreased as if it were any other piece of gear I own. My legs are carved out of solid marble. And it's all been one big preparation for the final stretch of the AT. Soon I'll be in the White Mountains and then in Maine, and I'll be put to the test. It will be very difficult yet very rewarding. I can't wait.

Camping near VT highway 14.

Day 127: 8/5/12

Miles today: 15.2
Total miles: 1,721.1
Miles remaining: 463.1

More of the same hiking I've had for the last few days today. Big climbs, good terrain. Even with big elevation changes it's nice walking on soft dirt instead of rocks and roots.
Stopped at a shelter after ten miles when it started to rain. Had a late lunch then got back on the trail once the rain stopped. Hiked with Man Boy and Voice of Reason for the rest of the day. That's very rare when I hike with others but we had a similar pace so it was nice to have company. At the end of the day we had a nasty climb then set up camp just before dark. Didn't have time or flat enough ground to cook dinner but it's all good. Tortillas and peanut butter to the rescue. As soon as our tents were up it started to rain. If it's still raining when I wake up tomorrow I'm stayin' in bed.

Camping just off the AT in a field near Woodstock Stage Rd.

Day 126: 8/4/12

Miles today: 16.1
Total miles: 1,705.9
Miles remaining: 478.3

A hard day but solid miles. Several up-and-down climbs over the mountains. Rained for awhile this afternoon. I Stopped at Gifford Woods state park to shower and wash my clothes. I noticed a tear down the seat of my pants. I have no idea how long it's been there. Sewed it up as best I could, but I'll need to buy a new pair once I get to Hanover, NH in a few days. I can't sew for jack squat.
Had a monstrous climb at the end of the day which took forever. I barely made it to camp before dark. I was tired and grouchy by the time I got there but when I did I was greeted by a huge crew of fellow northbounders: Grundlehammer, All Balls, Cheddah, B1, Zorro, Voice Of Reason, Man Boy, Yoko, Chunder, Solo, et. al. They were grilling hot dogs and had plenty left over so I ate three. Nice not to have to make dinner tonight. A good end to a hard day.
Crossed the 1700-mile mark today. If walking is cool, consider me Miles Davis.

Camping near Stony Brook shelter.

Day 125: 8/3/12

Miles today: 14.0
Total miles: 1,689.8
Miles remaining: 494.4

Lots of climbing today. A hard day. Ended with a 2000-ft climb up Mt. Killington, Vermont's highest peak on the AT at 4,235 ft. Great view from the top at sunset. Good training for the White Mountains of New Hampshire.

Staying at Cooper Lodge shelter.

Day 124: 8/2/12

"Roads? Where we're going we don't need roads."
- Doc Brown

Miles today: 14.9
Total miles: 1,675.8
Miles remaining: 508.4

Just some nice hiking today. No super duper views or anything, just a pleasant hike through the woods.
Had a few food cravings today, namely a California burrito (southern California readers will know this one) and my friend Tyler's bean dip. Today I ate poorly. Didn't feel like making a production out of lunch so I snacked on Little Debbies all day. Or "Little Diabetes" as I call them.

Staying at Minerva Hinchey shelter.

Day 123: 8/1/12

Miles today: 14.8
Total miles: 1,660.9
Miles remaining: 523.3

More Vermont beauty today. I'm really enjoying the Green Mountains. Nice hiking, lots of pine forest, and stunning views of the surrounding mountains. Had a few views spoiled by fog early on this morning but had a spectacular one from Baker Peak to end the day. As I reached the summit the sight literally took my breath away. I've never seen the Appalachians look so magnificent. I've always loved the eastern mountains, even in comparison with the Rockies, but today they outdid themselves. I've never been to this part of the country so this is all new to me. The trail continues to deliver, and I understand it only gets better from here.

Staying at Lost Pond shelter.

Day 122: 7/31/12

Miles today: 10.7
Total miles: 1,646.1
Miles remaining: 538.1

Fun day today. Hiked a quick ten miles, then headed into Manchester Center for a town day. Huge resupply. Ate at Friendly's with Grundlehammer, All Balls, and Cheddah. Then went to see Batman. Couldn't resist a little taste of civilization.
Stayed at Green Mountain House Hostel, a fantastic place run by this dude Jeff who was so cool, a very genuine guy. People like him give me an example to live by.
Showered, resupplied, and with clean clothes I'm ready to hit the trail again.

Staying at Green Mountain House Hostel.