Day 58: 5/28/12

Miles today: 10.2
Total miles: 764.7

Started with a massive 3000-ft climb this morning. The heat and humidity is starting to pick up, good training for when it gets really hot in a few months.
After ten miles it was looking like rain so we wimped out and stopped at the nearest shelter.
Saw some cool rock formations today. One called the "guillotine" is pictured below.

Staying at Thunder Hill shelter.

Day 57: 5/27/12

Miles today: 13.5
Total miles: 754.5

Had no desire to hike today. Just wasn't feeling it. But I did anyway and put in some decent miles. All around a boring day. I was very unenthusiastic today.

Staying at Bryant Ridge shelter.

Day 56: 5/26/12

Miles today: 18.5
Total miles: 741.0

There is a phenomenon on the AT known as "trail magic." It's a loosely defined term to describe acts of kindness or generosity to hikers, usually coming from locals who live near the trail. Common examples of trail magic are coolers of water or drinks left for hikers at road crossings or "hiker feeds," where someone will set up a grill and cook burgers, dogs, etc. to feed hikers who are passing through. Or it may be a ride into town on a cold, rainy day. At any rate, I experienced a timely bit of trail magic today courtesy of a couple named "South Park" and "Ma'am." Just as I emerged from the woods to a road crossing, they pulled up in their car and offered me a cold one and some delicious homemade zucchini bread. It was outta sight. Just what I needed just when I needed it. Thanks, Ma'am and South Park, you made my day!

A longer hike today but no problem with new shoes.

Staying at Bobblet's Gap shelter. Soon I'll need to use my tent exclusively, rain or shine; the mosquitoes are starting to bite.

Day 55: 5/25/12

Miles today: 9.4
Total miles: 722.5

Half-day today; stopped in Daleville to resupply and pick up my new shoes. Goodbye old shoes, you served me well.
Tomorrow I'll have a longer day and hopefully get an early start. It's getting hotter so I'm trying to take advantage of the cooler hours of the day, i.e. the early hours.

Today I reached the 1/3 mark on the AT.

Staying at the Howard Johnson in Daleville, VA.

Day 54: 5/24/12

Miles today: 16.3
Total miles: 713.1

Some great hiking today. Got an early start, courtesy of some roosters at the hostel. It was actually a nice way to wake up; beats an alarm clock any day. I was on the trail by 6:30 this morning.
Today I hiked to McAfee Knob and had the traditional photo taken sitting on the end of the ledge. All thru-hikers have this photo taken at McAfee. Sort of a rite of passage. Then onto Tinker Cliffs, some really nice rock formations with stunning views of the valley below. It was pretty foggy but the view was remarkable nonetheless.
Got into camp nice and early thanks to the early start. Perfect branches made for easy, textbook bear bag hanging. Today was a good day.
Tomorrow we'll have a short hike into Daleville for a long-term resupply (heavy backpack, here I come) and to an outfitter to pick up my new shoes - hooray!

Staying at Lambert's Meadow shelter.

Day 53: 5/23/12

Miles today: 6.7
Total miles: 696.8

Got up this morning and immediately stubbed my big toe as hard as one has ever stubbed a toe. Took a nice chunk out of my toenail. Made today's hike very difficult.
The trail today was mostly rock climbing. Had to stow my trekking poles on my pack to use my hands for climbing. The climax was a large rock formation called the "Dragon's Tooth." The climb down was even trickier and made even more difficult by the toe injury. The group I was hiking with stopped for the day at Four Pines hostel in Catawba. Normally six miles would be too short to call it a day but it was a grueling six and it was starting to rain so it was a good call.
I'm hoping my toe will feel better in the morning or it'll really slow me down.

Day 52: 5/22/12

Miles today: 10.1
Total miles: 690.1

More rain, thunder, and lightning this afternoon so I cut the hiking short at 10 miles today. I'm cold and wet but I can think of worse ways to spend the afternoon than hanging out in the woods drinking coffee and hot chocolate. Nawmsayin'?

On word-of-mouth communication: an interesting phenomenon for those of us who are otherwise technology-dependent, and heavily relied upon in the thru-hiker community. I've become very selective with what I listen to, however. For example, I definitely heed any advice I hear about resupply options, reviews of towns, restaurants, hostels, etc. But I do NOT listen to anything regarding weather, terrain, or elevation. It's either inaccurate or a bald-faced lie. "Virginia is flat.". Lies. All LIES. Virginia is hilly and rocky. Or how about "the next few miles are all downhill." LIES! ALL OF THEM! So yeah, word of mouth. Use at your own risk.

Staying at Pickle Branch shelter.

Day 51: 5/21/12

Miles today: 18.2
Total miles: 680.0

Good miles today. Got an early start, finished at 5:30. The last 5 miles included a gnarly thunderstorm with heavy rain but I made it to the shelter and all my gear stayed dry, except for my shoes and socks of course, no problem.
All of us in our little crew are almost out of food and are anxious to resupply in a few days. This also means that our backpacks are super-light so that's the consolation prize for running out of delicious snickers and beef jerky. And cheese. We've all decided we need to start packing some liquor when we resupply; after hiking in the rain it really helps to drink hot chocolate with some hooch in it to keep you warm.
Really looking forward to getting new shoes in a few days; my current pair is really starting to break down.

I saw lots of snakes today.

Staying at Niday shelter.

Day 50: 5/20/12

Miles today: 12.7
Total miles: 661.8

An unremarkable day on the AT. Nothing noteworthy to report. I'd intended to go farther today but I decided to stop while there was still plenty of daylight. Didn't want another situation like I had last night with hanging my food bag in the dark.

Staying at War Spur shelter.

Day 49: 5/19/12

Miles today: 19.3
Total miles: 649.1

Left Pearisburg this morning with three other hikers. Pictured below from left: Incline, me, a soft dog, Socks, and Wiseguy.
Steep climb onto the trail, then business as usual. The terrain was very tough. Very rocky. This made for a slow painful hike. I'm hopeful that my new shoes will resolve this once I pick them up in a few days.
Because I was so slow today I didn't have much daylight when I got to camp. Thus I couldn't hang my food because it was too dark. Wiseguy had seen a big bear nearby so I had to figure something out. I ended up locking my food in the privy, I kid you not. At the time of this writing I can only hope the bear won't tear that privy open. I'll take pictures tomorrow morning.

Staying at Pine Swamp Branch shelter.

5/20/12
Addendum: the bear did not get the privy open to steal my food. This answers the question, "does a bear s&$@ in the woods?"

Day 48: 5/18/12

Miles today: 10.4
Total miles: 629.8

Another short day. Left the hostel around 10am, and arrived at Pearisburg, VA around 3. Did the town thing today - motel, shower, laundry, dinner, resupply. Tomorrow should be a longer day - 15-20 miles.
Ordered some new shoes today, I should get them in the next week or so. I'm pretty excited about that. I think that my current pair is about worn out after 600+ miles.

On listening to music while hiking: today is the first day I've listened to music on this trip; I'd gone 47 days without putting in my headphones. An odd thing for a musician. I'd been enjoying listening to the sounds of the world and I guess I didn't want to spoil it. Plus most of the genres of music I listen to, i.e. jazz, punk, hip hop, are urban forms and didn't seem to make much sense out here. But as soon as I put on some Richard Groove Holmes that all changed. Made perfect sense in the woods. I'll be sure to have the iPod handy from now on.

Day 47: 5/17/12

Miles today: 12.0
Total miles: 619.4

Got a late start today. Normally I get up around 6 or 6:30 but today I slept in until about 8. Took my time breaking camp too. Made breakfast, then drank coffee and smoked a cigar, sat by the falls again, really milked it this morning.
A nice hike through the woods today.
Stopped for the day a half mile off the trail at Wood's Hole Hostel. Probably wouldn't have stayed here but everyone was raving about it and I'd read some good reviews so I gave it a try. I wasn't disappointed; this place is a real gem. The owners take great pride in making this a nice place to stay, especially with the food. Everything is grown and made on site. Really special. Dinner was outta site. Breakfast should be no different. It's nights like this that make a hard day's hike all the more rewarding.

Day 46: 5/16/12

Miles today: 18.2
Total miles: 607.4

Good terrain today. Plenty of elevation change but no ridiculous climbs. Fairly flat overall. Virginia's forests are very pretty. No spectacular views but the woods are much more to look at than previous sections of the trail.
Late in the day many of us walked a half mile off the trail to a small grocery that served burgers, fries, etc. I can get used to eating like this. Also packed out a tall boy of Budweiser and drank it near my campsite next to a waterfall. Nice way to end a long day.

Camped near Dismal Creek Falls.

Day 45: 5/15/12

Miles today: 9.2
Total miles: 589.2

A shortened day; had to run into town for resupply. Hiked a quick 7 miles to a road and got a ride into Bland, VA, an adequate trail town. Picked up my warm-weather sleeping bag from the post office (a welcome backpack-lightening measure), had lunch with some fellow hikers, bought a few days worth of groceries, and headed out. Couldn't get a ride back to the trail so I hoofed it but that was only about 3 miles extra. Got to the shelter at about 5pm so decided to call it a day.
Another big group at the shelter tonight.

Staying at Helveys Mill shelter.

Day 44: 5/14/12

Miles today: 14.8
Total miles: 580.0

Today began the way yesterday ended: everyone huddled in the shelter while the rain poured. We all got up, got ready, had breakfast and headed out into the rain one by one. It normally would have been miserable to walk out into the cold rain first thing in the morning but a group of 15-20 people gives each other the strength to do it. A nice thing, the hiker solidarity. We're-all-in this-together-kind of a thing.
The terrain was fairly easy today, and the forest in this area was beautiful. Rock formations, flowering trees, orange salamanders running around, a very colorful woods. Lots of great water sources; clean springs of cold water coming up out of the rock. I've never had water so fresh as some of the stuff I've had on the trail. Camped with about 5-6 of the people who were at the shelter last night.

Tomorrow I'll head into Bland, VA to pick up a package and resupply. Hopefully that town's name is a misnomer or I'm in for a really boring day.

Camped at Laurel Creek near the crossing at VA 615.

Day 43: 5/13/12

Miles today: 16.7
Total miles: 565.2

A good hard day. I took my time. Met some cows where the trail crossed a pasture.
Some big climbs, the last 4 miles today were 2000 ft uphill. And it started raining as I began that hill. Beefjerkytime. Big climb. At the top was a bald, and at 4000ft it pokes up into the rainy, foggy cloud. More uphill. The featureless grassy hill in the thick fog was very dreamlike. Very cool. From there the trail went into the deep dark forest. Pretty sure it's haunted. Trail goes up and outta the haunted forest, still uphill, then you start to get worried because you think you should see the shelter by now but you don't and did I go too far, etc.
Then wham, you see the shelter. A good thing, the rain was cold and heavy at that point.
Shelter looked big from the outside and didn't disappoint. It's got four walls (most shelters are open on one side) and a door. I go in and see an awesome scene, about 15 people having a grand old time. The shelter holds 8 but we've got 16 all snug in here. The weather is going bonkers outside on the top of this mountain but in here it's all good. A good, hard day. We earned this one.

Staying at Chestnut Knob shelter.

Day 42: 5/12/12

Miles today: 17.8
Total miles: 548.5

A good day on the AT today. Stayed at Partnership shelter where a lot if hikers were last night. There were at least 20 people there so the trail was very active today. All the talk was of a restaurant just off the AT near interstate 81. When we all got there it was a big crew. All were in good spirits. There was cell signal so we all made our calls, sent texts, updated blogs, etc. A good day on the trail today.

Camped at Crawfish Valley along Reed Creek (I swear I didn't make that up).

Day 41: 5/11/12

Miles today: 14.5
Total miles: 530.6

Got a late start today and headed into Troutdale to pick up a package and resupply at a local grocery. I'm still not keen on hitch hiking so I walked the 2.5 miles into town.
Turns out it wasn't a "town" at all; only a few houses, a post office, and about 8 Baptist churches. Cute. The grocery where my package was shipped had gone out of business recently so no resupply for me. Luckily the package my friend Nicole had sent me was at the post office. So at least I have some food items until I can find another resupply. Thanks Nicole, I owe you one!!
After the 5-mile round trip I figured I'd have a shortened day but I pressed on and made it to Partnership shelter. It's fancy as far as shelters go. It's right next to a visitor center that the local pizzeria delivers to, which was great news. So I hung my food bag and went to order some pizza but it was "too late" so they wouldn't deliver. It was 8:15. On a Friday night. So I said the hell with it and went to bed hungry.

Day 40: 5/10/12

Miles today: 16.1
Total miles: 516.1

A cold day but the sun came out. A typical day of hiking.

Camped near a road crossing. First thing tomorrow I have the difficult task of determining which way to go to reach Troutdale, where a package sent to me awaits. I'd use my phone to call or look at a map but I have no service here.

AT&T does not exist in this dojo.

Day 39: 5/9/12

Miles today: 17.3
Total miles: 500.0

A very challenging day today. Climbed Whitetop Mountain and Mount Rogers, and it rained all day. And it was cold. Very challenging.
Near the summit of Mt Rogers, before coming down into the Grayson Highlands, I met a herd of wild ponies. They were very friendly. The first pony I encountered ran up to greet me and began licking my trekking poles. He followed me for a while, licking me and my jacket and walking poles all the while.
By the time I got to camp I was spent. A very challenging day today.

Staying at Wise Shelter in Grayson Highlands State Park.

Day 38: 5/8/12

Miles today: 15.8
Total miles: 482.7

Left Damascus this morning after a relaxing day off yesterday. A long steep climb to start the day. This was kind of a relief; the terrain was so easy going into Virginia that I was beginning to worry about getting soft. But the climb at the beginning of the day and another at the end with rain in between kept me a hardened mountain man (sheeeit).
Beautiful hike overall today. The trail was festooned by rhododendron blossoms, and crossed over a river rapids on a long wooden bridge. I'm impressed with how well this section of the trail is maintained.

On hiker food (i.e. junk food): this is the most fantastic diet I've ever been on. When long-distance hiking, one burns 4500-6000 calories a day. So not only can you get away with a high-calorie, high-fat diet, you HAVE to eat that way. So yeah, I put olive oil on everything and eat lots of nuts, but how about quantity? Go for it. Pop tarts, peanut m&ms, snickers dipped in peanut butter? Paydays dipped in Nutella? Go for it! And I've lost at least 15 lbs. The challenge, of course, will be to once again eat like a normal human once I'm off the trail. But for now I'm gonna eat my heart out. Now gimme that butter for my cheesy hamhocks and some sour cream for my fried salad.

Took me but one attempt to throw my food bag line tonight. A perfect strike.

Staying at Lost Mountain shelter.

Day 37: 5/7/12

Miles today: 0.0
Total miles: 466.9

Took a zero day today, letting my feet rest and allowing a blister to heal. Staying at "The Place," a hiker hostel run by Damascus First United Methodist Church. All the hikers here love this place; it's nice having a hostel run by some normal people for a change, which can't be said for all hostels. United Methodist Church for the win. Finished resupplying, did some laundry, pretty uneventful day overall. Hung out with a cool dude, "Late For Dinner," from Traverse City, MI.

Day 36: 5/6/12

Miles today: 18.5
Total miles: 466.9

Arrived at Damascus, VA today. It's what I'd call the "end of the beginning" of the AT. 3 states down, 11 to go.

Had a typical town experience once I arrived - shower, town food (with beer, of course). And check this out - the hostel I'm staying at has hair clippers for all to use! So most hikers here, including some of the ladies, are sporting shaved heads. I shaved my head and my beard finally. See the before/after pictures. I tell you, as a bald man, that happiness is a freshly-shorn head.

Anyway, I'm looking forward to the next section of the trail, should be much different than what I've seen so far. Lots to see yet. Long way to go.

Day 35: 5/5/12

Somehow this day's entry was deleted. Oh well, nothing special, I hiked in the rain for awhile, no big deal.

Day 34: 5/4/12

Miles today: 15.8
Total miles 434.0

Spent last night alone at the shelter; no one else showed up. The solitude continued into this morning's hike, a long, steep uphill climb up the cliffs. I could tell I was the first hiker to walk this particular section of the trail today because I walked through about a million spider webs. That is one of the rudest sensations one can experience in nature (though I'm told having a camel spit on on you ranks highly, as well). Constantly having to peel spider webs from your brow, cheeks, ears, nose, neck, etc. No fun.
And the solitude continued all day. I didn't see a single other hiker today. And I'm alone at tonight's shelter as well, unless someone rolls in just before sundown. Nice, having plenty of alone time today.

Tonight's dinner is fettuccine al fredo with anchovies!

Camped at Vandeventer shelter.

Day 33: 5/3/12

Miles today: 17.5
Total miles: 418.2

Easy hiking today for the most part. Nice and level overall. Rumor had it that it'd be like this between Erwin, TN and Damascus, VA. But so far that rumor had been false. So after today I have renewed hope that not only will the rest of the trail into Virginia be flat(ish), but that Virginia itself may truly be this magical mystical land of milk and honey, where the terrain is flat, the streams flow with lemonade and whiskey, and the streets are paved with foot massages.

The end of the day was a nice climb up a few cliffs, with several views of waterfalls.

Staying at Laurel Fork shelter.

Day 32: 5/2/12

Miles today: 15.1
Total miles: 400.7

Very diverse hike today; first climbed two large grassy balds then through some farmland. After stopping at a hostel for a resupply I left North Carolina for good. I'm in Tennessee solely (no longer on the TN/NC border) until I reach Virginia in a few days.

Next walked through a grassy field, followed by pine forest before coming to Mountaineer Falls shelter. This is the nicest shelter I've seen on the AT so far.

Had to drop my pack and walk back down the trail about 1/4 mile when I realized I'd dropped my glasses. But there they were, just casually resting on the ground in the middle of a field, as if they belonged there. If only I didn't hate wearing contacts.

A few challenges today: I've been sick for the last two days, which I attribute to the goofy dangerous weather on Roan Mtn a few days back. This makes hiking difficult. Also, I've run out of my water treatment chemicals. I'll be able to get more in about four days, but in the meantime I'll have to boil it and hope I don't run out of fuel.

Oh, and to my hiker friends from New England: they're called "pop tarts," not "pup tarts."

Day 30: 4/30/12

Miles today: 14.8
Total miles: 373.8

Pretty uneventful day for the most part. Nice hot weather, pleasant hiking, good views. Even had a nice little catnap after lunch.

At the end of the day was a 3-mile, 2,000-ft climb up Roan Mountain. No problem. Except that after about two miles the weather turned on us. I was hearing thunder so started to haul ass in order to stay ahead of the weather. Then the rain came. No problem. Then the lightning came. Problem. At over 6000 ft, this is when bad things can happen. I came to a campsite where few other guys had pitched their tents and decided to stop as well. As I put up my tent the hail started. Threw all my gear in the tent and jumped in. Things stayed dry for the most part luckily.
Then the lighting really started hammering us and it was CLOSE. No more than a second between the flash and the thunder.
Then a river of cold water rushed under my tent, creating an icy waterbed. So when the hail stopped we all moved our tents to non-river-type locations. Just in time, too, because it's hailing again.

I gotta get out of these southern mountains. In a week or so I'll be in Virginia.

But for today I'm calling foul on Mother Nature.

Day 29: 4/29/12

Miles today: 17.0
Total miles: 359.0

A garden variety day on the AT today. Put in some good miles, saw some nice views. Had a water scare today - ran out of water and had to climb a few mountains and walk for about two hours before coming to a spring.

I love water.

Camping near Cherry Gap shelter.

Day 31: 5/1/12

Miles today: 11.8
Total miles: 386.5

Finally made it over Roan Mtn this morning after last night's weather cut yesterday's hike short. Several ups and downs in elevation today, with the usual beautiful views of the surrounding mountains.

Stopped early today; I'm nursing a shin splint that's slowing me down. I camped at a clearing with this dude "Lucky Ten," who was among those of us caught in the hail on Roan. It was just the two of us, we had some good conversation over a campfire. He's an older guy, in his early fifties, which makes him far more fun to talk to than many of the younger guys who only talk about boring inane stuff like stupid things they did with their buddies when they drank too much MGD.

Heading into town tomorrow to resupply. Not sure which town just yet but we'll see.