Miles today: 19.0
Total miles: 1,238.0
Woke up and saw the sunrise from Pulpit Rock where I camped. One of the nicest mornings I've had on the trail.
Put in some good miles today. Weather was better than yesterday and I had plenty of water all day. Terrain was pretty rocky at times but nothing too severe.
The little black flies that look like big gnats are becoming an issue. They swarm all over your face and they don't respond to deet. We'll see how I handle them, perhaps a head-mounted bug zapper?
Camping next to the AT near PA-309.
Saturday, June 30, 2012
Friday, June 29, 2012
Day 90: 6/29/12
Miles today: 11.7
Total miles: 1,219.0
A hard day. It rained overnight so I broke camp late today to allow my tent to dry out. It was the hottest day I've had on the trail so far. I was sweating bullets before I even started hiking.
Hiked down an incredibly steep decline into Port Clinton, a small town with the usual resources: shower, restaurants, etc. But I skipped all that; I'd lost enough time with my late start. It was about 2pm at that point, and the heat was at its peak. Getting out of town was a 1000-ft climb back up. I'd drank all my water by the time I got to the top. Problem. The heat was unbearable. I was really hurting for water by the time I got to the next spring. When I did I drank two liters of the coldest, freshest, most satisfying spring water I've ever had. Then filled all my bottles and moved on.
A few miles later I stopped briefly for dinner then pushed another 1.5 miles to Pulpit Rock. It's a great view and a perfect place to stop for the day so I pitched my tent and crashed. A good ending to a hard day.
Camping at Pulpit Rock.
Total miles: 1,219.0
A hard day. It rained overnight so I broke camp late today to allow my tent to dry out. It was the hottest day I've had on the trail so far. I was sweating bullets before I even started hiking.
Hiked down an incredibly steep decline into Port Clinton, a small town with the usual resources: shower, restaurants, etc. But I skipped all that; I'd lost enough time with my late start. It was about 2pm at that point, and the heat was at its peak. Getting out of town was a 1000-ft climb back up. I'd drank all my water by the time I got to the top. Problem. The heat was unbearable. I was really hurting for water by the time I got to the next spring. When I did I drank two liters of the coldest, freshest, most satisfying spring water I've ever had. Then filled all my bottles and moved on.
A few miles later I stopped briefly for dinner then pushed another 1.5 miles to Pulpit Rock. It's a great view and a perfect place to stop for the day so I pitched my tent and crashed. A good ending to a hard day.
Camping at Pulpit Rock.
Thursday, June 28, 2012
Day 89: 6/28/12
Miles today: 19.7
Total miles: 1,207.3
Solid hiking day. Today I could really feel how well-conditioned I've become. Terrain was rocky and a few climbs were involved but I was able to push through it all without straining myself. I took only a few breaks and kept an even pace, the heat and bugs notwithstanding. I'm enjoying the long days with plenty of daylight. It gives me the freedom to get up early and hike into the evening.
The next few days should prove difficult; extremely rocky terrain and hot weather lie ahead. I may see a decrease in daily mileage for the duration of the trail in Pennsylvania.
Camping near the AT four miles south of Port Clinton.
Total miles: 1,207.3
Solid hiking day. Today I could really feel how well-conditioned I've become. Terrain was rocky and a few climbs were involved but I was able to push through it all without straining myself. I took only a few breaks and kept an even pace, the heat and bugs notwithstanding. I'm enjoying the long days with plenty of daylight. It gives me the freedom to get up early and hike into the evening.
The next few days should prove difficult; extremely rocky terrain and hot weather lie ahead. I may see a decrease in daily mileage for the duration of the trail in Pennsylvania.
Camping near the AT four miles south of Port Clinton.
Wednesday, June 27, 2012
Day 88: 6/27/12
Miles today: 14.5
Total miles: 1,187.6
Got up early as planned and was on the trail by 6:30 this morning. I arrived near my resupply point around 2:00 so I had plenty of time to get in and out of town. I'm not keen on hitch hiking but it was necessary this time to avoid an eight-mile round trip. The ride in was easy; the first driver I saw pulled over and gave me a lift into Pine Grove, a very nice little town with a good supermarket. On the way out of town I didn't find a ride quite so quickly. I started walking back but as I was passing in front of the Pine Grove Wesleyan Church a man flagged me down and offered me a lift. He introduced himself as Cody and he was a fellow hiker, a kindred spirit. As he dropped me off back at the trail he said a prayer for me. Thanks to people like him the AT experience is much easier for thru-hikers.
As I got to the shelter just past the road crossing there was a huge hiker feed going on. Tacos, desserts, sodas, and good company. A fine day on the trail.
Total miles: 1,187.6
Got up early as planned and was on the trail by 6:30 this morning. I arrived near my resupply point around 2:00 so I had plenty of time to get in and out of town. I'm not keen on hitch hiking but it was necessary this time to avoid an eight-mile round trip. The ride in was easy; the first driver I saw pulled over and gave me a lift into Pine Grove, a very nice little town with a good supermarket. On the way out of town I didn't find a ride quite so quickly. I started walking back but as I was passing in front of the Pine Grove Wesleyan Church a man flagged me down and offered me a lift. He introduced himself as Cody and he was a fellow hiker, a kindred spirit. As he dropped me off back at the trail he said a prayer for me. Thanks to people like him the AT experience is much easier for thru-hikers.
As I got to the shelter just past the road crossing there was a huge hiker feed going on. Tacos, desserts, sodas, and good company. A fine day on the trail.
Tuesday, June 26, 2012
Day 87: 6/26/12
Miles today: 16.2
Total miles: 1,173.1
Slept in this morning and got a late start, left camp around 10am. The hiking was easy today - more flat, soft terrain with only a few rocky patches.
Met some thru-hikers today I hadn't met before: Bubblefoot, Medicine Man, and F.M. Cool guys. Had lunch with them then hiked another eight miles or so and saw them again. At that point they were setting up camp but I only joined them for dinner. I needed to put in some more miles to make up for my late start. I hiked another hour and a half until I found a good place to camp, hung my food, pitched my tent, and hit the sack. I've got my tent fly partially open, facing east so that the rising sun might get me out of bed sooner tomorrow. We'll see how that works out.
Camping along the A.T. about 3 miles north of Rausch Gap shelter.
Total miles: 1,173.1
Slept in this morning and got a late start, left camp around 10am. The hiking was easy today - more flat, soft terrain with only a few rocky patches.
Met some thru-hikers today I hadn't met before: Bubblefoot, Medicine Man, and F.M. Cool guys. Had lunch with them then hiked another eight miles or so and saw them again. At that point they were setting up camp but I only joined them for dinner. I needed to put in some more miles to make up for my late start. I hiked another hour and a half until I found a good place to camp, hung my food, pitched my tent, and hit the sack. I've got my tent fly partially open, facing east so that the rising sun might get me out of bed sooner tomorrow. We'll see how that works out.
Camping along the A.T. about 3 miles north of Rausch Gap shelter.
Day 86: 6/25/12
Miles today: 16.0
Total miles: 1,156.9
Didn't leave Duncannon until 9:00 this morning. It was raining which was fine, but then the thunder and lightning came. Homey don't play that. Waited for that to stop then got going.
Crossed the Susquehanna, then had a long climb up a mountain which included some tricky rocky areas. From the top the trail was all along a ridge line so there weren't any other huge ascents or descents.
At about 6pm I was ready to stop and had plenty of water so I looked for flat spots along the trail to camp. For awhile there was nothing then suddenly I saw the perfect site along the trail. It had golden rays of sunlight beaming on it and I could hear angels sing as I approached. It'll be hard to leave this spot tomorrow.
Camping about two miles south of PA-325.
Total miles: 1,156.9
Didn't leave Duncannon until 9:00 this morning. It was raining which was fine, but then the thunder and lightning came. Homey don't play that. Waited for that to stop then got going.
Crossed the Susquehanna, then had a long climb up a mountain which included some tricky rocky areas. From the top the trail was all along a ridge line so there weren't any other huge ascents or descents.
At about 6pm I was ready to stop and had plenty of water so I looked for flat spots along the trail to camp. For awhile there was nothing then suddenly I saw the perfect site along the trail. It had golden rays of sunlight beaming on it and I could hear angels sing as I approached. It'll be hard to leave this spot tomorrow.
Camping about two miles south of PA-325.
Sunday, June 24, 2012
Day 85: 6/24/12
Miles today: 11.5
Total miles: 1,140.9
A shortened day today. Stopped in Duncannon PA, a town on the Susquehanna River, to resupply and do laundry. Staying at The Doyle Hotel, a run-down old building that's a favorite stop for hikers; the trail goes right past it, rooms are inexpensive, and there's a pub downstairs.
I'm doing my best to stop buying so much food when I resupply. I always end up carrying more than I need and it's just unnecessary pack weight. I think I did ok this time, disciplining myself not to pack too much.
I'll try to get an early start and put in some good miles tomorrow. I should be well rested after the short day today.
Total miles: 1,140.9
A shortened day today. Stopped in Duncannon PA, a town on the Susquehanna River, to resupply and do laundry. Staying at The Doyle Hotel, a run-down old building that's a favorite stop for hikers; the trail goes right past it, rooms are inexpensive, and there's a pub downstairs.
I'm doing my best to stop buying so much food when I resupply. I always end up carrying more than I need and it's just unnecessary pack weight. I think I did ok this time, disciplining myself not to pack too much.
I'll try to get an early start and put in some good miles tomorrow. I should be well rested after the short day today.
Day 84: 6/23/12
Miles today: 14.3
Total miles: 1,129.4
All business today. I walked. I camped. Simple.
Staying at Darlington Shelter.
Total miles: 1,129.4
All business today. I walked. I camped. Simple.
Staying at Darlington Shelter.
Saturday, June 23, 2012
Day 83: 6/22/12
Miles today: 15.2
Total miles: 1,115.2
Hard miles today. Not much else to say, really. Heat, humidity, and elevation change slowed me down.
Came through a small town called Boiling Springs. Nice place. Sat in a tavern, had a few pilseners.
Camped at a site just outside of town that was designated for AT hikers. A nice grassy area, but right next to some train tracks. RIGHT next to some train tracks. Trains came through all night blowing their horns in my face. Funny.
Total miles: 1,115.2
Hard miles today. Not much else to say, really. Heat, humidity, and elevation change slowed me down.
Came through a small town called Boiling Springs. Nice place. Sat in a tavern, had a few pilseners.
Camped at a site just outside of town that was designated for AT hikers. A nice grassy area, but right next to some train tracks. RIGHT next to some train tracks. Trains came through all night blowing their horns in my face. Funny.
Friday, June 22, 2012
Day 82: 6/21/12
"Everybody here is outta sight
They don't bark and they don't bite
They keep things loose, they keep things light..."
-King Harvest, 'Dancing in the Moonlight'
Miles today: 21.3
Total miles: 1,100.0
Big day today. Time slowed down and I lived about a week worth of life in one day. Got up with the sun and hit the trail around 6:30. Today's hike was absolutely beautiful. I'm loving Pennsylvania's section of the AT. Did a quick 8 miles, then ran into a group that travels together mostly: Jim Bob, Crawdad, Book Bag, and Merry Poppins. Hung out with them for a few, shared San Fran stories with Crawdad, who's also from SF. I'd see them on and off all day.
Sometime mid-morning I ran into Plant Man, who was doing some trail magic - giving free drinks to hikers - at a road crossing with his wife, who'd come out to visit him. Fun way to take a break, sitting in a lawn chair having a beer.
Did another several miles, then had lunch at a shelter with the same group of four from earlier. Headed down the trail with them and took pictures in front of the AT midpoint marker sign. Halfway done with our journey!
Next the five of us hustled another 4 miles down to Pine Grove Furnace state park to face the "Half Gallon Challenge." This is a tradition among thru-hikers whereby once halfway finished with the trail the hiker must eat a half gallon of ice cream. When we arrived several hikers were already there. All people we knew, including Bowser, Boots, 3:10, and Grundlehammer, so it became a party in no time. We went into the store, got our ice cream (mint chocolate chip for me) and dug in. It was a great time, eating ice cream and relaxing on the porch in the hot, humid summer day. Everyone was in great spirits, cracking jokes, telling stories, busting chops, etc. Super-fun group of people. A great afternoon.
It took some time but I polished off that half gallon. And a bottle of root beer. Then I had a cheeseburger. And two mellow yellows. The absurdity of hiker nutrition knows no bounds.
After the afternoon super-meal I had the energy of a thousand suns so I hit the trail to put in another four miles or so. Found a nice flat spot to pitch my tent, hung my food, drank about a gallon of water, and hit the hay. Big day today.
Camping next to the AT about four miles north of Pine Grove Furnace state park.
They don't bark and they don't bite
They keep things loose, they keep things light..."
-King Harvest, 'Dancing in the Moonlight'
Miles today: 21.3
Total miles: 1,100.0
Big day today. Time slowed down and I lived about a week worth of life in one day. Got up with the sun and hit the trail around 6:30. Today's hike was absolutely beautiful. I'm loving Pennsylvania's section of the AT. Did a quick 8 miles, then ran into a group that travels together mostly: Jim Bob, Crawdad, Book Bag, and Merry Poppins. Hung out with them for a few, shared San Fran stories with Crawdad, who's also from SF. I'd see them on and off all day.
Sometime mid-morning I ran into Plant Man, who was doing some trail magic - giving free drinks to hikers - at a road crossing with his wife, who'd come out to visit him. Fun way to take a break, sitting in a lawn chair having a beer.
Did another several miles, then had lunch at a shelter with the same group of four from earlier. Headed down the trail with them and took pictures in front of the AT midpoint marker sign. Halfway done with our journey!
Next the five of us hustled another 4 miles down to Pine Grove Furnace state park to face the "Half Gallon Challenge." This is a tradition among thru-hikers whereby once halfway finished with the trail the hiker must eat a half gallon of ice cream. When we arrived several hikers were already there. All people we knew, including Bowser, Boots, 3:10, and Grundlehammer, so it became a party in no time. We went into the store, got our ice cream (mint chocolate chip for me) and dug in. It was a great time, eating ice cream and relaxing on the porch in the hot, humid summer day. Everyone was in great spirits, cracking jokes, telling stories, busting chops, etc. Super-fun group of people. A great afternoon.
It took some time but I polished off that half gallon. And a bottle of root beer. Then I had a cheeseburger. And two mellow yellows. The absurdity of hiker nutrition knows no bounds.
After the afternoon super-meal I had the energy of a thousand suns so I hit the trail to put in another four miles or so. Found a nice flat spot to pitch my tent, hung my food, drank about a gallon of water, and hit the hay. Big day today.
Camping next to the AT about four miles north of Pine Grove Furnace state park.
Wednesday, June 20, 2012
Day 81: 6/20/12
Miles today: 15.8
Total miles: 1,078.7
Kind of a weird day. Nothing particularly weird happened, it just felt odd at times. Nice hiking today, PA has been very pretty so far. It was hot, in the upper 90s, so I took it easy and took lots of breaks. Slow going today.
I didn't see a single other thru-hiker all day long. Odd.
I had to do a quick resupply and I knew there was a grocery about .7 from a road crossing so I stashed my pack in the woods and walked on down. It wasn't an interstate I was walking along but it was a highway so it didn't feel very safe. But there was a nice big shoulder so I was ok. The grocery store was a small-town operation so the selection wasn't great but I got enough food to get me to my next resupply. I hustled back to the trail, found my pack, and started filling my food bag when I realized half the food I'd bought wasn't there. I don't know if the cashier didn't bag everything or if I just absent-mindedly didn't grab everything. Either way, I wasn't about to go another 1.4 miles out of my way down that dangerous highway to get the rest. I'd rather just eat the lost money and do another minor resupply tomorrow.
I got back on the trail and hiked 2.7 miles up a huge hill and reached the shelter. It's one of the nicest shelters I've seen on the trail, or at least one of the best cared-for. It's very clean and kept up, with hanging flower baskets. And I'm the only one here. Odd.
Staying at Quarry Gap shelter.
Total miles: 1,078.7
Kind of a weird day. Nothing particularly weird happened, it just felt odd at times. Nice hiking today, PA has been very pretty so far. It was hot, in the upper 90s, so I took it easy and took lots of breaks. Slow going today.
I didn't see a single other thru-hiker all day long. Odd.
I had to do a quick resupply and I knew there was a grocery about .7 from a road crossing so I stashed my pack in the woods and walked on down. It wasn't an interstate I was walking along but it was a highway so it didn't feel very safe. But there was a nice big shoulder so I was ok. The grocery store was a small-town operation so the selection wasn't great but I got enough food to get me to my next resupply. I hustled back to the trail, found my pack, and started filling my food bag when I realized half the food I'd bought wasn't there. I don't know if the cashier didn't bag everything or if I just absent-mindedly didn't grab everything. Either way, I wasn't about to go another 1.4 miles out of my way down that dangerous highway to get the rest. I'd rather just eat the lost money and do another minor resupply tomorrow.
I got back on the trail and hiked 2.7 miles up a huge hill and reached the shelter. It's one of the nicest shelters I've seen on the trail, or at least one of the best cared-for. It's very clean and kept up, with hanging flower baskets. And I'm the only one here. Odd.
Staying at Quarry Gap shelter.
Tuesday, June 19, 2012
Day 80: 6/19/12
Miles today: 22.7
Total miles: 1,062.9
A long day, lotta hiking. Started out the way yesterday ended: foggy and dreary. I was unmotivated again. Managed to grind out eight miles, then stopped for lunch. Just then the sun came out and my mood improved instantly. Throughout the afternoon the terrain became more difficult but it also became more fun. The usual ascents and descents only very rocky so it became a demanding climbing day. Wasn't expecting that; I'd figured Maryland would be all flat and soft earth.
This afternoon I met a cat randomly walking down the trail. He was friendly and didn't seem to be hungry or anything, so I assume he lives nearby.
Toward the end of the day I came upon Pen-Mar state park. A beautiful spot to stop for dinner and fill up on clean water. Ran into Boots and Grundlehammer there, hadn't seen them in a few days. After dinner I pressed on and did another five miles. Left Maryland behind and crossed into Pennsylvania. 6 states down, 8 to go.
Barely made it to camp with enough sunlight to hang my food and set up my tent.
Camping near Deer Lick shelter.
Total miles: 1,062.9
A long day, lotta hiking. Started out the way yesterday ended: foggy and dreary. I was unmotivated again. Managed to grind out eight miles, then stopped for lunch. Just then the sun came out and my mood improved instantly. Throughout the afternoon the terrain became more difficult but it also became more fun. The usual ascents and descents only very rocky so it became a demanding climbing day. Wasn't expecting that; I'd figured Maryland would be all flat and soft earth.
This afternoon I met a cat randomly walking down the trail. He was friendly and didn't seem to be hungry or anything, so I assume he lives nearby.
Toward the end of the day I came upon Pen-Mar state park. A beautiful spot to stop for dinner and fill up on clean water. Ran into Boots and Grundlehammer there, hadn't seen them in a few days. After dinner I pressed on and did another five miles. Left Maryland behind and crossed into Pennsylvania. 6 states down, 8 to go.
Barely made it to camp with enough sunlight to hang my food and set up my tent.
Camping near Deer Lick shelter.
Monday, June 18, 2012
Day 79: 6/18/12
Miles today: 16.6
Total miles: 1,040.2
My first full day in Maryland. A very unremarkable stretch of the trail. A very boring day. I was unmotivated. It was raining. When the rain stopped it was foggy and dull. I'm not complaining, just telling it like it is. The terrain and elevation were nice, though. Flat and soft. Easy walking.
Staying at Pine Knob shelter.
Total miles: 1,040.2
My first full day in Maryland. A very unremarkable stretch of the trail. A very boring day. I was unmotivated. It was raining. When the rain stopped it was foggy and dull. I'm not complaining, just telling it like it is. The terrain and elevation were nice, though. Flat and soft. Easy walking.
Staying at Pine Knob shelter.
Day 78: 6/17/12
Miles today: 6.6
Total miles: 1,023.6
Final day in D.C. We all went and got pedicures! This is something I also did just before I started the trail and it was fantastic. After that we went to the movies; saw Prometheus. Gnarly movie, I highly recommend it. Afterwards Tim dropped me off at Union Station for the ride back to Harper's Ferry. I'm lucky to have friends like Tim and Nicole. Their kind and generous hospitality was a real highlight of this trip so far. A huge morale boost heading into the second half of the trail.
After returning to Harper's Ferry I headed up the trail and put in about six miles to the next shelter just before it got dark. Crossed into Maryland. 5 states down, 9 to go.
Staying at Ed Garvey shelter.
Total miles: 1,023.6
Final day in D.C. We all went and got pedicures! This is something I also did just before I started the trail and it was fantastic. After that we went to the movies; saw Prometheus. Gnarly movie, I highly recommend it. Afterwards Tim dropped me off at Union Station for the ride back to Harper's Ferry. I'm lucky to have friends like Tim and Nicole. Their kind and generous hospitality was a real highlight of this trip so far. A huge morale boost heading into the second half of the trail.
After returning to Harper's Ferry I headed up the trail and put in about six miles to the next shelter just before it got dark. Crossed into Maryland. 5 states down, 9 to go.
Staying at Ed Garvey shelter.
Sunday, June 17, 2012
Day 77: 6/16/12
Miles today: 0.0
Total miles: 1,017.0
Had another fun day off with my friends Tim and Nicole today. Went to a Washington Nationals baseball game. They played the Yankees and the game went 14 innings but the Yankees won in the end. Super fun day. It was a real treat being able to see a game and eat a frank and drink beer on a sunny day.
For dinner they spoiled me yet again with grilled steak and mushrooms, corn on the cob, couscous and watermelon. A real joy. It's been a great weekend.
Total miles: 1,017.0
Had another fun day off with my friends Tim and Nicole today. Went to a Washington Nationals baseball game. They played the Yankees and the game went 14 innings but the Yankees won in the end. Super fun day. It was a real treat being able to see a game and eat a frank and drink beer on a sunny day.
For dinner they spoiled me yet again with grilled steak and mushrooms, corn on the cob, couscous and watermelon. A real joy. It's been a great weekend.
Friday, June 15, 2012
Day 76: 6/15/12
Miles today: 0.0
Total miles: 1,017.0
Took a zero day to take a side trip to D.C. to visit my friends Tim Wu and Nicole Yun. Had a fantastic time today. Walked around the mall to see the monuments then met Tim for lunch at Nicole's dad's restaurant. Brisket sammich for the win!
Had beers later and hung out at Tim and Nicole's place. They have a beautiful home and have been such generous hosts. I'm being treated so well here it's going to be tough going back to trail life!
They treated me to dinner at an Afghan restaurant, excellent food and a welcome change from cheeseburgers!
Great day today!
Total miles: 1,017.0
Took a zero day to take a side trip to D.C. to visit my friends Tim Wu and Nicole Yun. Had a fantastic time today. Walked around the mall to see the monuments then met Tim for lunch at Nicole's dad's restaurant. Brisket sammich for the win!
Had beers later and hung out at Tim and Nicole's place. They have a beautiful home and have been such generous hosts. I'm being treated so well here it's going to be tough going back to trail life!
They treated me to dinner at an Afghan restaurant, excellent food and a welcome change from cheeseburgers!
Great day today!
Please Sponsor My AT Hike Against Hunger!
Greetings, gentle blog readers!
I'm resubmitting this post since many of you are new readers of this blog.
As you know, I'm hiking the Appalachian Trail to raise funds for Action Against Hunger, a global humanitarian organization committed to fighting world hunger.
If you find my journey inspiring, bold, audacious (or all of the above), please support my efforts by making a charitable donation at http://support.actionagainsthunger.org/goto/jwagner
I've hiked nearly half the AT so far, thanks in no small part to all the support I've received. Thank you!
Best,
Justin
I'm resubmitting this post since many of you are new readers of this blog.
As you know, I'm hiking the Appalachian Trail to raise funds for Action Against Hunger, a global humanitarian organization committed to fighting world hunger.
If you find my journey inspiring, bold, audacious (or all of the above), please support my efforts by making a charitable donation at http://support.actionagainsthunger.org/goto/jwagner
I've hiked nearly half the AT so far, thanks in no small part to all the support I've received. Thank you!
Best,
Justin
Day 75: 6/14/12
Miles today: 5.0
Total miles: 1,017.0
A fun day on the AT journey. Walked a quick five miles into Harper's Ferry, WV. Stopped at the Appalachian Trail Conservancy headquarters to sign their book, have my photo taken, and be counted with all the other thru-hikers, past, present, and future. When you stop in a place like Harper's Ferry, a town steeped in American History, it gives you a taste of what you're doing out here: an American Pilgrimage.
Did the typical town thing today: shower, laundry, resupply.
Tomorrow I'm heading off the trail into Washington, D.C. to visit my friends Tim Wu and Nicole Yun. Can't wait!
Staying at Town's Inn hostel.
Total miles: 1,017.0
A fun day on the AT journey. Walked a quick five miles into Harper's Ferry, WV. Stopped at the Appalachian Trail Conservancy headquarters to sign their book, have my photo taken, and be counted with all the other thru-hikers, past, present, and future. When you stop in a place like Harper's Ferry, a town steeped in American History, it gives you a taste of what you're doing out here: an American Pilgrimage.
Did the typical town thing today: shower, laundry, resupply.
Tomorrow I'm heading off the trail into Washington, D.C. to visit my friends Tim Wu and Nicole Yun. Can't wait!
Staying at Town's Inn hostel.
Wednesday, June 13, 2012
Day 74: 6/13/12
Miles today: 18.1
Total miles: 1,012.0
A very good day on the trail. Lots of little things went right. I had enough energy early on to charge through 7 miles of steep elevation changes. Up, down, up, down, rinse and repeat. Some days those types of uphill/downhill hikes can kill your spirits but today I owned them.
Said goodbye to Virginia today and passed into West Virginia. After 545 miles Virginia had grown on me. Sad, in a way, to move on. The hiking there was very beautiful; spectacular views, fun (if challenging) terrain, great wildlife, and a national park. 4 states down, 10 to go.
Met three trail maintenance crew members from the Potomac Appalachian Trail Club, the club that maintains the trail from Shenandoah to Harper's Ferry. I chatted with them for awhile, expressed my gratitude for their hard work and got some advice on where to camp tonight.
I headed down to the shelter where I was thinking of stopping but it was only 3:00 so I decided to move on.
At Keys Gap I walked a quarter-mile off the trail and stopped at a pizzeria for dinner. Had a salad, onion rings, a pizza, and two beers. Hit the spot.
Got back on the trail and walked up a mile where the trail crew said there was a camping spot. It was right where they said it'd be.
I pitched my tent, hung my food, and elected not to build a fire tonight. I know, shame on me, but I'm bushed.
Tomorrow I head into Harper's Ferry. Time to resupply, shower, do laundry, and visit the Appalachian Trail Conservancy headquarters.
Camping just off the AT one mile north of Key's Gap.
Total miles: 1,012.0
A very good day on the trail. Lots of little things went right. I had enough energy early on to charge through 7 miles of steep elevation changes. Up, down, up, down, rinse and repeat. Some days those types of uphill/downhill hikes can kill your spirits but today I owned them.
Said goodbye to Virginia today and passed into West Virginia. After 545 miles Virginia had grown on me. Sad, in a way, to move on. The hiking there was very beautiful; spectacular views, fun (if challenging) terrain, great wildlife, and a national park. 4 states down, 10 to go.
Met three trail maintenance crew members from the Potomac Appalachian Trail Club, the club that maintains the trail from Shenandoah to Harper's Ferry. I chatted with them for awhile, expressed my gratitude for their hard work and got some advice on where to camp tonight.
I headed down to the shelter where I was thinking of stopping but it was only 3:00 so I decided to move on.
At Keys Gap I walked a quarter-mile off the trail and stopped at a pizzeria for dinner. Had a salad, onion rings, a pizza, and two beers. Hit the spot.
Got back on the trail and walked up a mile where the trail crew said there was a camping spot. It was right where they said it'd be.
I pitched my tent, hung my food, and elected not to build a fire tonight. I know, shame on me, but I'm bushed.
Tomorrow I head into Harper's Ferry. Time to resupply, shower, do laundry, and visit the Appalachian Trail Conservancy headquarters.
Camping just off the AT one mile north of Key's Gap.
Day 73: 6/12/12
Miles today: 15.3
Total miles: 993.9
Hiked in the rain today. Cold, uphill, rocky. Difficult hike today. Feet are very sore. Earned my miles today.
Tomorrow I reach the 1,000-mile mark.
Staying at Sam Moore shelter.
Total miles: 993.9
Hiked in the rain today. Cold, uphill, rocky. Difficult hike today. Feet are very sore. Earned my miles today.
Tomorrow I reach the 1,000-mile mark.
Staying at Sam Moore shelter.
Day 72: 6/11/12
Miles today: 18.6
Total miles: 978.6
An uneventful day. But last night was interesting. We awoke a few times to the sound of a raccoon climbing the bear pole to get our food bags. And he succeeded. He'd torn open one section hiker's food bag by the time we shooed him away. He scampered away but we knew he'd be back. When he did come back one of the section hikers saw him at the base of the pole chowing on hiker food. He picked up a big rock and threw it toward the raccoon to scare it away. But it hit that raccoon square. It rolled around and ran like hell back into the woods. He didn't come back. We gave that section hiker his new trail name this morning: "Deadeye."
Staying at Dick's Dome shelter.
Total miles: 978.6
An uneventful day. But last night was interesting. We awoke a few times to the sound of a raccoon climbing the bear pole to get our food bags. And he succeeded. He'd torn open one section hiker's food bag by the time we shooed him away. He scampered away but we knew he'd be back. When he did come back one of the section hikers saw him at the base of the pole chowing on hiker food. He picked up a big rock and threw it toward the raccoon to scare it away. But it hit that raccoon square. It rolled around and ran like hell back into the woods. He didn't come back. We gave that section hiker his new trail name this morning: "Deadeye."
Staying at Dick's Dome shelter.
Sunday, June 10, 2012
Day 71: 6/10/12
Miles today: 16.2
Total miles: 960.5
Today was my last day in Shenandoah. Kinda sad, I've really enjoyed it. Maybe I'll be back one day.
Saw two more bears today, little guys this time, probably 200-250 lbs each. They really are beautiful animals, these black bears. They don't have the grace that, say, the deer have, but they're fun to watch, slowly lumbering through the forest, turning around to look at you, then going back about their business.
The next few days we'll have Harper's Ferry, WV in our sights. Should be there by Thursday. It's the "psychological halfway point" of the AT.
Staying at Tom Floyd shelter.
Total miles: 960.5
Today was my last day in Shenandoah. Kinda sad, I've really enjoyed it. Maybe I'll be back one day.
Saw two more bears today, little guys this time, probably 200-250 lbs each. They really are beautiful animals, these black bears. They don't have the grace that, say, the deer have, but they're fun to watch, slowly lumbering through the forest, turning around to look at you, then going back about their business.
The next few days we'll have Harper's Ferry, WV in our sights. Should be there by Thursday. It's the "psychological halfway point" of the AT.
Staying at Tom Floyd shelter.
Day 70: 6/9/12
Miles today: 18.1
Total miles: 944.3
Long day today. Not particularly mileage-wise, but it was a full day. Started the day with lots of elevation change, then climbed up to Mary's Rock, which had great views of Shenandoah. Met a few people at the top who took great interest in my thru-hike and asked lots of questions about it. It was flattering that someone was so fascinated.
Saw scores of day hikers today. Made sense; good weather, weekend, nat'l park.
At the end of the day we stopped at a wayside and had cheeseburgers and did a light resupply.
Found a good campsite just off the trail.
Camping near Elkwallow Wayside in Shenandoah Nat'l Park.
Total miles: 944.3
Long day today. Not particularly mileage-wise, but it was a full day. Started the day with lots of elevation change, then climbed up to Mary's Rock, which had great views of Shenandoah. Met a few people at the top who took great interest in my thru-hike and asked lots of questions about it. It was flattering that someone was so fascinated.
Saw scores of day hikers today. Made sense; good weather, weekend, nat'l park.
At the end of the day we stopped at a wayside and had cheeseburgers and did a light resupply.
Found a good campsite just off the trail.
Camping near Elkwallow Wayside in Shenandoah Nat'l Park.
Friday, June 8, 2012
Day 69: 6/8/12
Miles today: 16.1
Total miles: 926.2
Saw another bear today, got a good look this time. Big sucker. I tried to take pictures but none of them really turned out (I know, I know, pics or it didn't happen). I didn't want to get any closer for a good shot since he didn't seem do be afraid of me. Maybe next time.
Lots of wildlife in general here in Shenandoah. Deer, bears, and some big birds that I thought were turkeys but others are calling peacocks, I dunno.
Staying at Skyland Resort (not as cool as it sounds).
Total miles: 926.2
Saw another bear today, got a good look this time. Big sucker. I tried to take pictures but none of them really turned out (I know, I know, pics or it didn't happen). I didn't want to get any closer for a good shot since he didn't seem do be afraid of me. Maybe next time.
Lots of wildlife in general here in Shenandoah. Deer, bears, and some big birds that I thought were turkeys but others are calling peacocks, I dunno.
Staying at Skyland Resort (not as cool as it sounds).
Day 68: 6/7/12
Miles today: 20.6
Total miles: 910.1
Saw my first bear today. It was about 20 yards from me and must've heard me coming and took off into the woods. I didn't get a good look at it, but it was big, black, and furry. Definitely ursine.
Had a good hike today and put in some good miles. I met another guy from San Francisco this afternoon, the first I've met on the trail from SF.
At the end of the day about a mile from the shelter I came across a camp store (gotta love the resources of a national park). Packed out a few beers and headed to camp. Caught up with Socks and Wiseguy and some others I'd fallen behind. Lots of German speakers at the shelter tonight, Germans and Swiss. I've been practicing my German with them. I've spoken more German on the AT than I have since my visit to Germany 18 years ago.
My calf hurts. Took a liberal dose of ibuprofen.
Staying at Bearface Mountain shelter.
Total miles: 910.1
Saw my first bear today. It was about 20 yards from me and must've heard me coming and took off into the woods. I didn't get a good look at it, but it was big, black, and furry. Definitely ursine.
Had a good hike today and put in some good miles. I met another guy from San Francisco this afternoon, the first I've met on the trail from SF.
At the end of the day about a mile from the shelter I came across a camp store (gotta love the resources of a national park). Packed out a few beers and headed to camp. Caught up with Socks and Wiseguy and some others I'd fallen behind. Lots of German speakers at the shelter tonight, Germans and Swiss. I've been practicing my German with them. I've spoken more German on the AT than I have since my visit to Germany 18 years ago.
My calf hurts. Took a liberal dose of ibuprofen.
Staying at Bearface Mountain shelter.
Day 67: 6/6/12
Miles today: 13.2
Total miles: 889.5
Early this morning around 4:00 or 5:00am a whippoorwill began going bonkers in the camp. If you're unfamiliar with the song of a whippoorwill I can tell you it is the most obnoxious and psychotic of all bird sounds. At one point I shouted in a half-asleep stupor "shut up," in hopes that the bird would be startled and fly off, but no luck. I'd attribute my being tired all day today to that noisy bird.
Got a late start, did my best to dry my tent, then got on the trail around 9:15 this morning. Put in a short 13 miles then decided to stop when I had some soreness in my left calf.
Staying at Pinefield Hut shelter.
Total miles: 889.5
Early this morning around 4:00 or 5:00am a whippoorwill began going bonkers in the camp. If you're unfamiliar with the song of a whippoorwill I can tell you it is the most obnoxious and psychotic of all bird sounds. At one point I shouted in a half-asleep stupor "shut up," in hopes that the bird would be startled and fly off, but no luck. I'd attribute my being tired all day today to that noisy bird.
Got a late start, did my best to dry my tent, then got on the trail around 9:15 this morning. Put in a short 13 miles then decided to stop when I had some soreness in my left calf.
Staying at Pinefield Hut shelter.
Wednesday, June 6, 2012
Day 66: 6/5/12
Miles today: 20.0
Total miles: 876.3
Entered Shenandoah Nat'l Park today. This is some easy hiking. Very well-graded, nice and flat. It rained on and off throughout the day which was tough, but it could have been worse. The shelter was full tonight so I pitched my tent for the first time in awhile. It's raining, so I'm not thrilled about tenting but I've had a good run of not having to tear down a wet tent so I guess I was due.
There were plenty of non-thru-hikers at the shelter tonight, which was apparent by the conversations they carried on, ranging from politics to local current events and other fairly intelligent topics. Whereas the typical thru-hiker conversation might go like this: "Monkey hungry? Monkey want rest of spam?" "No, monkey already eat. Where water? Monkey thirsty. Monkey mad there no spring on trail today."
Camping near Blackrock Hut shelter.
Total miles: 876.3
Entered Shenandoah Nat'l Park today. This is some easy hiking. Very well-graded, nice and flat. It rained on and off throughout the day which was tough, but it could have been worse. The shelter was full tonight so I pitched my tent for the first time in awhile. It's raining, so I'm not thrilled about tenting but I've had a good run of not having to tear down a wet tent so I guess I was due.
There were plenty of non-thru-hikers at the shelter tonight, which was apparent by the conversations they carried on, ranging from politics to local current events and other fairly intelligent topics. Whereas the typical thru-hiker conversation might go like this: "Monkey hungry? Monkey want rest of spam?" "No, monkey already eat. Where water? Monkey thirsty. Monkey mad there no spring on trail today."
Camping near Blackrock Hut shelter.
Monday, June 4, 2012
Day 64: 6/3/12
Miles today: 0.0
Total miles: 856.3
Took the first of two zero days with my parents, did the usual town activities: outfitter, food resupply, saw a movie, ate in restaurants, slept in a bed, the whole bit. We'll have one more day off tomorrow then I'll get back on the trail, but for now it's great to have the time to visit and get some R&R.
Total miles: 856.3
Took the first of two zero days with my parents, did the usual town activities: outfitter, food resupply, saw a movie, ate in restaurants, slept in a bed, the whole bit. We'll have one more day off tomorrow then I'll get back on the trail, but for now it's great to have the time to visit and get some R&R.
Day 65: 6/4/12
Miles today: 0.0
Total miles: 856.3
Had my second zero day with my parents today, went for a ride over the Blue Ridge and hung out by the Rapidan River. My dad was able to get in some fly fishing. We had dinner and came back to the hotel, watched a hockey game and did laundry.
Looking forward to getting back on the trail first thing tomorrow morning. I'm well-fed, well-rested, and ready to to finish off Virginia. Excelsior!
Total miles: 856.3
Had my second zero day with my parents today, went for a ride over the Blue Ridge and hung out by the Rapidan River. My dad was able to get in some fly fishing. We had dinner and came back to the hotel, watched a hockey game and did laundry.
Looking forward to getting back on the trail first thing tomorrow morning. I'm well-fed, well-rested, and ready to to finish off Virginia. Excelsior!
Saturday, June 2, 2012
Day 63: 6/2/12
Miles today: 20.8
Total miles: 856.3
Boots and I got on the trail around 7 this morning and did an easy 20 miles into Waynesboro. It was the first time I've hiked all day with someone else. It made the time fly, having someone to talk to and joke around with.
Met my parents at Waynesboro, where we're staying at a Residence Inn. A nice place to hang out and rest for a few days before entering Shenandoah. Great to see my folks, a real morale boost.
We ate at Outback steakhouse and my lord did I eat a lot. Bread, artichoke flatbread, salad, porterhouse steak, baked potato and a large beer. Ate it all. Quite possibly the most I've ever eaten in a restaurant. I could make a habit out of this. Looking forward to a good two days off the trail.
Total miles: 856.3
Boots and I got on the trail around 7 this morning and did an easy 20 miles into Waynesboro. It was the first time I've hiked all day with someone else. It made the time fly, having someone to talk to and joke around with.
Met my parents at Waynesboro, where we're staying at a Residence Inn. A nice place to hang out and rest for a few days before entering Shenandoah. Great to see my folks, a real morale boost.
We ate at Outback steakhouse and my lord did I eat a lot. Bread, artichoke flatbread, salad, porterhouse steak, baked potato and a large beer. Ate it all. Quite possibly the most I've ever eaten in a restaurant. I could make a habit out of this. Looking forward to a good two days off the trail.
Day 62: 6/1/12
Miles today: 13.8
Total miles: 835.5
Fewer miles today but they were hard-earned. A long 3000-ft descent followed by a tough 3000-ft climb. During the rocky ascent it was pouring rain. It would have been a difficult enough climb even without the bad weather but the rain made the rocks slippery and the hiking slow. Thunder and lightning added an element of stress that made me want to run the remaining miles to the next shelter, if not for the thirty pounds on my back. Many of my friends have told me they envy me for hiking the AT. I assure you, they do not envy days like today.
At the end of the climb was another long downhill, then I arrived at the shelter. I'd liked to have gone farther today but I settled for the 13.8 miles to get out of the pouring rain.
It's an enjoyable evening at the shelter with Boots, Hippity-Hop, and some section hikers, sitting around cracking jokes and quoting South Park episodes while the rain pours outside.
Tomorrow I'll get up early and walk the remaining 21 miles to Waynesboro to meet my parents for a visit and take a few days' break from the trail.
Staying at Maupin Field shelter.
Total miles: 835.5
Fewer miles today but they were hard-earned. A long 3000-ft descent followed by a tough 3000-ft climb. During the rocky ascent it was pouring rain. It would have been a difficult enough climb even without the bad weather but the rain made the rocks slippery and the hiking slow. Thunder and lightning added an element of stress that made me want to run the remaining miles to the next shelter, if not for the thirty pounds on my back. Many of my friends have told me they envy me for hiking the AT. I assure you, they do not envy days like today.
At the end of the climb was another long downhill, then I arrived at the shelter. I'd liked to have gone farther today but I settled for the 13.8 miles to get out of the pouring rain.
It's an enjoyable evening at the shelter with Boots, Hippity-Hop, and some section hikers, sitting around cracking jokes and quoting South Park episodes while the rain pours outside.
Tomorrow I'll get up early and walk the remaining 21 miles to Waynesboro to meet my parents for a visit and take a few days' break from the trail.
Staying at Maupin Field shelter.
Day 61: 5/31/12
Miles today: 22.4
Total miles: 821.7
A long day. My longest on the AT so far. A strenuous day, too; about 4500 ft in elevation change.
Nice scenery, the usual mountains and valleys. I never get tired of these views. At one point today I ran out of water three miles before the next water source. When I got to the spring I drank about 8 gallons.
Looking forward to being in Shenandoah National Park in a few days.
Staying at The Priest shelter.
Total miles: 821.7
A long day. My longest on the AT so far. A strenuous day, too; about 4500 ft in elevation change.
Nice scenery, the usual mountains and valleys. I never get tired of these views. At one point today I ran out of water three miles before the next water source. When I got to the spring I drank about 8 gallons.
Looking forward to being in Shenandoah National Park in a few days.
Staying at The Priest shelter.
Day 60: 5/30/12
Miles today: 18.3
Total miles: 799.3
Long day but a good hike. Nice scenery today. When I got to camp to night I Lost my bear bag rope up a tree. Wiseguy had an extra one for me to borrow though. Gotta remember to score another one when I'm in town next.
Staying at Brown Mtn Creek shelter.
Total miles: 799.3
Long day but a good hike. Nice scenery today. When I got to camp to night I Lost my bear bag rope up a tree. Wiseguy had an extra one for me to borrow though. Gotta remember to score another one when I'm in town next.
Staying at Brown Mtn Creek shelter.
Day 59: 5/29/12
Miles today: 16.3
Total miles: 781.0
A good, solid day on the AT. Got up at 5am, hit the trail at 6. Had 14 miles to do by 1:00 so we needed an early start. At 1pm we got a shuttle into Glasgow, VA for resupply then hiked another 2 miles to camp. We packed out some sausages and a bunch of other stuff to cook and had real food for dinner. I'd heard it was supposed to rain so I took a spot in the shelter. It's a good thing because it's really pouring now.
Staying at John's Hollow shelter.
Total miles: 781.0
A good, solid day on the AT. Got up at 5am, hit the trail at 6. Had 14 miles to do by 1:00 so we needed an early start. At 1pm we got a shuttle into Glasgow, VA for resupply then hiked another 2 miles to camp. We packed out some sausages and a bunch of other stuff to cook and had real food for dinner. I'd heard it was supposed to rain so I took a spot in the shelter. It's a good thing because it's really pouring now.
Staying at John's Hollow shelter.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)